Improving Serum Texture
Question
I have formulated a serum using the provided list of ingredients and found the texture to be sticky/tacky. Could you please advise on how to adjust the formulation to make it feel smoother, lighter, faster-absorbing, and quicker-drying? I would appreciate recommendations for specific ingredients, their suggested usage percentages, and the mixing procedure for these adjustments.
Answer
Improving Serum Texture
It sounds like your serum formulation is feeling sticky or tacky, which is a common issue with water-based serums, often due to thickeners and humectants. Here are some suggestions to improve the texture, making it feel smoother, lighter, absorb faster, and dry quicker:
Potential Causes of Stickiness:
- Xanthan Gum: While it's a good thickener, using too much or certain types can cause a sticky feel.
- Humectants: Ingredients like Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, and Polyquaternium-51 attract water and can contribute to a tacky feel, especially in combination or high concentrations.
Suggested Adjustments:
Reduce Xanthan Gum: This is often the primary culprit for stickiness. Try reducing the amount you are currently using. A typical range for a light serum might be around 0.2% - 0.4%. If you are using more than this, reducing it should help significantly.
Add a Lightweight Emollient/Ester: Incorporating an ingredient that provides "slip" and a dry, non-tacky finish can greatly improve the feel.
- Suggested Ingredient: Coco-Caprylate/Caprate or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. These are lightweight esters derived from coconut oil that spread easily and leave a smooth, non-greasy feel.
- Suggested Percentage: Add 2% - 5% of Coco-Caprylate/Caprate or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride to your formula. Start with 2% and increase if needed in future trials.
How to Adjust Your Formula (General Mixing Guide):
- Reduce Xanthan Gum: Use the lower percentage of Xanthan Gum (e.g., 0.2% - 0.4%) when preparing your water phase. Ensure it is fully hydrated and lump-free.
- Add the Ester: Once your serum base is fully mixed and homogeneous (typically after all water-soluble ingredients and thickeners are incorporated and the mixture is cooled if heated), add the suggested ester (Coco-Caprylate/Caprate or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) at your chosen percentage (2% - 5%).
- Mix Thoroughly: Stir or mix gently until the ester is fully dispersed and the serum has a uniform consistency.
- Final Adjustments: Add your preservative (Mild Preserved Eco™) as the final step, if it wasn't already part of your liquid base.
Important Note: Formulating is an iterative process. Start with small adjustments (like reducing the gum slightly and adding 2% of the ester) and make test batches to see how the texture changes. You may need to experiment with the percentages to find the perfect feel for your preference.
These adjustments should help reduce the stickiness and give your serum a lighter, smoother, and faster-absorbing feel.