Improving Serum Texture and Absorption
Question
Based on the following formulation, how can I adjust the ingredients to make the texture non-sticky, feel comfortable on the skin, and improve skin absorption? Formulation: Sterile Distilled Water 25.4 %, Repair Activator™ 10 %, Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 10 %, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq. Argireline) 10 %, Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000) 8 %, Skin-mimic™ (Skin Barrier Restoration) 7 %, GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4 %, Double Hyaluron Liquid 3 %, Tranexamic Acid 3 %, Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3 %, Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 3 %, Ectoine (Ectoin) 2 %, Light Lotion Maker 2 %, Satin Cream Maker™ 1.5 %, MOIST72™ 1 %, Phospholipid 1 %, Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract 1 %, Centella Asiatica Extract 1 %, MSH White™ 1 %, Mild Preserved Eco™ 1 %, PiteraEx™ 1 %, Bakuchiol (Natural Retinol) 0.6 %, Xanthan Gum 0.5 %.
Answer
Improving Skin Feel and Absorption
Based on your formulation, the sticky feel and slower absorption are likely due to the combination of several humectants and thickeners used at relatively high concentrations.
Key ingredients that can contribute to this texture include:
- Double Hyaluron Liquid (3%): Hyaluronic acid is an excellent moisturizer, but higher concentrations can leave a tacky or slightly sticky residue on the skin surface.
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, 10%): While Safe-B3™ is a high-purity Niacinamide designed to minimize flushing, a 10% concentration can still contribute to a slightly sticky or heavy feel for some users.
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine, 4%): This ingredient also has humectant properties and, when combined with other moisturizers, can add to the overall tackiness.
- Xanthan Gum (0.5%): Xanthan Gum is a common thickener. While the "clear gel type, smooth texture" is better than standard grades, it can still impart a texture that feels less smooth or slightly sticky compared to other options, and it can sometimes hinder rapid absorption.
- MOIST72™ (1%): As a long-lasting humectant, MOIST72™ also contributes to the moisturizing feel, which can sometimes be perceived as slightly sticky depending on the overall formulation.
- Light Lotion Maker (2%) and Satin Cream Maker™ (1.5%): These are emulsifiers that create the base texture of your product. While they contribute to the overall feel, the primary drivers of stickiness in this formula are likely the humectants and thickeners.
To improve the skin feel and absorption, consider the following adjustments:
Reduce Humectant Concentrations:
- Decrease Double Hyaluron Liquid from 3% to 1-2%. This will still provide significant hydration but reduce the potential for tackiness.
- Lower Safe-B3™ from 10% to 5%. This concentration still offers substantial benefits (whitening, anti-acne, barrier support) while being less likely to feel sticky.
- Reduce GlucoBright™ from 4% to 2%. This helps decrease the total load of humectants contributing to tackiness.
Modify the Thickener:
- Consider replacing Xanthan Gum (0.5%) with Poly-Protect (Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum) at a similar usage rate (0.5-1.5%). Poly-Protect is a natural polymer known for creating a smooth, non-sticky film on the skin and can improve the sensory feel and absorption compared to some grades of Xanthan Gum.
When reducing the percentages of these ingredients, increase the percentage of Sterile Distilled Water accordingly to maintain a total of 100%.
These modifications aim to balance the powerful active ingredients and moisturizers with a lighter, faster-absorbing texture. Always test small batches when adjusting formulations.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Satin Cream Maker™
MOIST72™
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Poly-Protect (Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum)