Improving Tackiness and Hold in Oil-Based Pomade/Wax

Question

I am making an oil-based pomade/wax for hair styling. My current formula uses waxes (Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Carnauba Wax), oils (Olive Oil, Jojoba Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil), butters (Lanolin, Shea Butter), and Oil Blender (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate) at 2-3%. I heat the oil phase ingredients together, mix, and pour.

The product is currently too hard. I want to reduce the hardness and achieve a texture that is "เหนียว หนืด หนึบ" (tacky/sticky/gummy) for better hold and long-lasting styling, similar to commercial products with strong hold. I understand that increasing wax makes it harder and stickier, but I want to control the hardness while getting the desired tackiness and hold.

Could you advise on how to adjust the formulation to achieve this specific tacky texture and good hold in an oil-based system, while keeping the texture pliable enough to scoop?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Improving Tackiness and Hold in Oil-Based Pomade

You're looking to make your oil-based pomade less hard and add more tackiness and hold ("เหนียว หนืด หนึบ") for better hair styling. While reducing wax helps with hardness, achieving that specific tacky feel requires incorporating ingredients known as tackifiers.

Waxes like Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, and Carnauba Wax provide structure and hardness. Oils such as Olive Oil, Jojoba Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil, and butters like Lanolin and Shea Butter contribute softness and emolliency but don't typically give significant tackiness.

To introduce the desired tackiness and hold, consider adding specific oil-soluble polymers to your formula. Two effective options are:

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: A clear, viscous liquid polymer that adds tackiness, adhesion, and gloss without making the product overly hard.
Polybutene: Another viscous hydrocarbon polymer that provides similar tackiness, adhesion, and gloss properties.

Formulation Adjustment Tips:

Wax Content: Keep the total percentage of waxes (Beeswax, Candelilla Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Carnauba Wax) in the 10-20% range for a pliable texture. Adjust within this range based on desired final hardness.
Add Tackifier: Incorporate Hydrogenated Polyisobutene or Polybutene into your oil phase. Start with a percentage like 5-10% and adjust through testing to find the level of tackiness you prefer.
Balance with Oils/Butters: The remaining portion of your formula will be your oils and butters, which provide softness and emolliency.
Use Oil Blender: Continue using Oil Blender (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate) at 2-3% to help ensure a smooth, uniform texture and prevent graininess.

Your manufacturing process of heating the oil phase ingredients together is correct. Ensure all waxes and the chosen tackifier are fully melted and well-mixed before pouring.

By balancing the amount of hard waxes with the addition of a tackifying polymer, you can create an oil-based pomade that has both the desired pliability and the necessary tackiness and hold for effective hair styling. Experimentation with the ratios is key to finding your ideal formula.