Improving Texture of Thanaka Cream with High Powder Content

Subject: Improving the texture of your Thanaka cream

Hello,

Thank you for reaching out regarding the texture issue with your homemade Thanaka cream. It's common for formulations with high percentages of herbal powders like Thanaka to have a less smooth, sometimes powdery or gritty texture.

The main reason for this is that powders are solid particles that need to be properly dispersed and suspended within the cream base to prevent them from clumping or making the cream feel rough. Your formula contains 15% Thanaka powder, which is a significant amount, and the current emulsifier system (Cetearyl alcohol and Glyceryl Stearate) and other ingredients might not be sufficient to fully suspend and stabilize this much powder while maintaining a smooth texture.

To improve the texture and achieve a smoother, less powdery feel, you could consider adjusting your formula by adding ingredients that help with particle suspension and emulsion stability:

1. Suspending Agents/Thickeners: Adding a small percentage (typically 0.1-0.5%) of ingredients like Xanthan Gum or Carbomer can significantly help to suspend the Thanaka powder particles evenly throughout the cream, preventing them from settling and reducing the powdery feel. These ingredients build a gel-like network that holds the particles in place.
2. Emulsion Stabilizers / Polymeric Emulsifiers: Consider incorporating an ingredient that helps stabilize emulsions, especially those with high solid content. Some polymeric emulsifiers or stabilizers are specifically designed to handle significant amounts of powders and pigments, helping to create a more stable and smooth cream structure. These ingredients can improve the overall feel and prevent separation.
3. Additional Emollients / Silicones: Adding more ingredients that provide slip and a smooth feel, such as Dimethicone (a type of silicone oil), can help mask the powdery feel and improve the glide of the cream on the skin.

Furthermore, the fineness of the Thanaka powder itself plays a crucial role. Very finely milled powder will integrate more smoothly than coarser powder. The method of mixing is also important – ensuring the powder is fully wetted and dispersed before combining phases, and using adequate mixing speed, can help.

You may need to experiment with small batches and adjust the percentages of the added ingredients to find the balance that gives you the desired texture.

We hope these suggestions help you achieve a smoother Thanaka cream!