Incorporating Oil-Soluble Ingredients (Bisabolol, Shea Butter) into Gel and Toner Formulations

Question

When creating a gel using Pro Polymer or Reshape Gel, is it possible to directly add Bisabolol? For Shea Butter, the initial information suggests melting it into an oil before adding to the gel. If making a toner, the initial information suggests mixing oil-soluble substances with an emulsifier or solubilizer before adding water. Could you please clarify the best methods for incorporating oil-soluble ingredients like Bisabolol and Shea Butter into water-based formulations such as gels (specifically using Pro Polymer or Reshape Gel) and toners, ensuring stability and proper dispersion?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Incorporating Oil-Soluble Ingredients into Water-Based Formulations (Gel or Toner)

To effectively incorporate oil-soluble ingredients like Bisabolol and Shea Butter into a water-based gel or toner, you generally need to use a solubilizer or emulsifier. These ingredients help disperse the oil phase evenly within the water phase, preventing separation and ensuring a stable product.

For Toner Formulations

For a liquid toner, using a suitable solubilizer is essential. You would typically mix your oil-soluble ingredients (Bisabolol and melted Shea Butter) with the solubilizer first. Then, gradually add the water phase while stirring continuously until a clear or uniformly dispersed liquid is achieved.

Recommended solubilizers from the search results include:

Heptyl Glucoside: A high HLB natural solubilizer, soluble in water.
C12-15 Pareth-12: A non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier/solubilizer, soluble in water and oil.

For Gel Formulations (using Pro Polymer or Reshape Gel)

When using gel makers like Pro Polymer or Reshape Gel, the approach can vary slightly, but using a solubilizer is still the most reliable method for stability, especially if you desire a clear gel.

Using a Solubilizer: The recommended method is to pre-disperse your oil-soluble ingredients (Bisabolol and melted Shea Butter) with a solubilizer (such as Heptyl Glucoside or C12-15 Pareth-12) in a small amount of water or co-solvent before adding this mixture to your main gel base after it has fully formed. This helps ensure the oil-soluble components are well-integrated.
Direct Addition: As mentioned in the previous reply, some gel makers like Pro Polymer or Reshape Gel might allow for direct addition of oil-soluble ingredients in small amounts. Reshape Gel's description notes it can incorporate up to 10% oil but will result in an opaque gel. While direct addition might work for very low concentrations of Bisabolol, incorporating Shea Butter (which is a butter/oil) directly without a solubilizer is less likely to yield a stable, uniform gel and may cause separation or cloudiness.
Alternative for Shea Butter: PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides is a modified form of Shea Butter that is water-dispersible. You could incorporate this directly into the water phase before forming the gel with Pro Polymer or Reshape Gel. However, this will likely result in a cloudy or opaque gel, and you would still need a method (like a solubilizer) to incorporate the Bisabolol.

In summary, for stable incorporation of oil-soluble Bisabolol and Shea Butter into water-based toners or gels, using a suitable solubilizer like Heptyl Glucoside or C12-15 Pareth-12 is highly recommended. For Shea Butter specifically, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides offers a water-dispersible option, though it affects clarity.