Increasing Cream Viscosity with Electrolytes

Question

Hello,

I need some advice. If my cream formulation contains electrolytes such as Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, DMAE, etc., when using an emulsifier to create the cream texture, I find I need to use a larger amount because these ingredients reduce the cream's viscosity, making it too liquid. I want to ask if there are other ways to make the cream more viscous without increasing the amount of the same emulsifier.

For example, if I normally use Light Cream Maker at 1-2%, but with electrolytes in the formula, I need to increase it to 4-5% to get the desired texture. I feel that using this emulsifier at such a high amount is excessive, so I want to reduce its quantity while still achieving the desired cream consistency. Are there other adjustment methods available that do not involve removing the electrolyte ingredients from the formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Increasing Cream Viscosity with Electrolytes

You are experiencing a common challenge in cosmetic formulation: ingredients like Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, and DMAE are electrolytes, which can significantly reduce the viscosity of creams thickened or emulsified with certain polymers or emulsifiers, such as Light Cream Maker. This often necessitates using a higher percentage of the emulsifier to achieve the desired thickness.

If you want to maintain your electrolyte ingredients but avoid using a high percentage of your current emulsifier, you can use alternative or supplementary thickeners that are specifically designed to be tolerant of electrolytes.

Here are some types of thickeners that are known for their electrolyte tolerance and can help you achieve the desired viscosity without relying solely on increasing the amount of your primary emulsifier:

Acrylate Crosspolymers: Several Carbomer types and similar polymers offer good electrolyte resistance. Examples include Carbomer Ultrez 30, Carbomer 2020, Carbomer 1342, and Carbomer U20. These often require neutralization to thicken.
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6: Ingredients like Sepimax Zen are highly tolerant of salts and pH variations, making them effective thickeners in formulas with electrolytes.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: This is another polymer thickener that can handle electrolytes and works without heat.
Xanthan Gum: While natural gums can sometimes be sensitive to electrolytes, certain grades of Xanthan Gum can offer some tolerance and contribute to viscosity.
Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol: This ingredient can provide synergistic thickening with salts, although it is often used in cleansing systems, it demonstrates electrolyte compatibility.

By incorporating one or a combination of these electrolyte-tolerant thickeners into your formulation, you can compensate for the viscosity loss caused by your electrolyte ingredients and achieve the desired cream texture without needing to drastically increase the concentration of an electrolyte-sensitive emulsifier like Light Cream Maker.

Additionally, as noted in the description for Light Cream Maker, the mixing method can also help. Adding electrolyte-containing ingredients gradually to the cream base after it has formed can sometimes help maintain viscosity better than adding them early in the process.