Increasing Water Phase in Formulation and Resulting Texture

Asked by: rutthapol_ks On: December 04, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to increase the water phase and decrease the oil phase in a formulation. Is this possible, and what will the resulting texture and stability be?

Answer

Increasing Water in Formulations

Yes, it is possible to increase the water content in a formulation and reduce the oil phase, but it requires the use of suitable emulsifiers to create a stable emulsion (like a cream or lotion) and prevent separation. Simply adding water to an oil-based formula without an emulsifier will cause the layers to separate.

To achieve a formulation with a high water phase (e.g., 50% water or more), you need emulsifiers that can effectively bind a significant amount of oil within the water phase.

Here are some ingredients that can help achieve this:

  • Light Lotion Maker: This is a high-performance emulsifier that can bind up to 40% oil, allowing for formulations with up to 60% water. It helps create a light texture and can even be used for sprayable formulas. It works well in a wide pH range (4-9) and can be used in cold process.
  • Milk Lotion Maker™: This liquid emulsifier is also designed for formulations requiring a high oil phase (up to 40% oil), resulting in a high water phase (up to 60% water). It creates a liquid, easy-to-spread texture similar to a milky lotion.
  • CreamMaker EG™: While primarily a thickener and stabilizer, it also acts as a binder/emulsifier. It can be used in cold process and helps create supple gels and creams. It can be added to either the oil or water phase and works in a wide pH range (5.5-12). It can help stabilize high-water formulas.

Using these types of emulsifiers will allow you to incorporate a higher percentage of water into your formula, but as the staff mentioned, the resulting texture will be an emulsion (cream or lotion), not a clear oil, because the emulsifier is needed to blend the oil and water phases together.

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