Ingredient Substitutions for O/W Emulsion

You are looking to replace three ingredients in your O/W face cream emulsion formula: DEA Cetyl Phosphate, Isostearyl Stearoyl Stearate, and Isodecyl Neopentanoate.

Here are the suggested alternatives and information:

1. Emulsifier: DEA Cetyl Phosphate

Since DEA Cetyl Phosphate is not available, a suitable alternative is Potassium Cetyl Phosphate.

• Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is a highly effective emulsifier commonly used in creams, lotions, and sunscreens to increase formula stability.
• Usage Rate:
  • Use at 1.5-3.0% as the main water-oil binder.
  • Use at 0.5-1.0% to increase stability in formulas with separation issues.
• Mixing Method: Dissolve in the oil phase with heat (around 90°C) before mixing with the water phase.

2. Oil Emollients: Isostearyl Stearoyl Stearate and Isodecyl Neopentanoate

• For Isostearyl Stearoyl Stearate, a suitable alternative is Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate.
  • Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate is a highly polarized emollient ester with a heavier texture but good dispersion. It helps adjust skin feel and makes the formula spread easily.
  • Usage Rate: 1-50%
  • Mixing Method: Mix in the oil phase.
• Isodecyl Neopentanoate is available.
  • Isodecyl Neopentanoate is an ester known for its high softness, often used as an alternative to silicone cyclopentasiloxane (though it does not evaporate).
  • Usage Rate: 1-20%
  • Mixing Method: Mix in the oil phase.

By using Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, and Isodecyl Neopentanoate, you should be able to create a stable and effective O/W emulsion for your face cream.