Ingredient Analysis: Peeling Gel, Pore Gel, and Bubble Cleanser

Asked by: love_piggychan On: July 09, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on the provided ingredient lists for a Peeling Gel, a Pore Reducing Gel, and a Bubble Oxygen Cleanser, please clarify the following points:

Peeling Gel:

  • Which ingredient in the formula acts as an AHA or performs the peeling function (since there are no physical beads)?
  • Are ingredients like PEG 400 and PEG 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil the polymers responsible for the pilling/balling-up effect when rubbing the gel on the skin?

Pore Reducing Gel:

  • Which ingredient helps eliminate acne?
  • Which ingredient helps tighten pores?

Bubble Oxygen Cleanser:

  • Which ingredient is the 'oxygen' that causes the bubbling effect?
  • Are SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE and SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE considered carcinogens?

Answer

Based on the ingredient lists you provided, here is an analysis of each product:

1. Peeling Gel

  • Question 1: Which ingredient is the AHA?
    Based on the ingredient list, there are no ingredients that are classified as typical AHAs (such as Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, etc.). Arginine is an amino acid and is not an AHA.
  • Question 2: Which ingredient performs the peeling function?
    You are correct that there are no physical beads for exfoliation. The "peeling" effect you observe, where the product forms flakes or balls up when rubbed, is a common phenomenon in cosmetic formulations caused by certain gelling agents or polymers. In this formula, HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE and CARBOMER are gelling agents (polymers) that are likely responsible for this effect. When you rub the gel, these polymers can interact with the skin's surface and the product itself, causing it to roll up and create the appearance of "dead skin" or "ขี้ไคล" (keratin debris). This is often a marketing technique and does not necessarily indicate that significant dead skin is being removed.
  • Follow-up Question: Are PEG 400, PEG 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil the polymers that cause the pilling?
    While PEG 400 and PEG 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil are also polymers (specifically, ethoxylated compounds), they primarily function as humectants, emulsifiers, or surfactants. The gelling polymers like Hydroxyethylcellulose and Carbomer are much more likely to be the main contributors to the pilling or balling-up effect observed when rubbing the product on the skin.

2. Pore Reducing Gel

  • Question 1: Which ingredient helps eliminate acne?
    The ingredient list contains many oils, emollients, and plant extracts. There are no standard acne-fighting ingredients like Salicylic Acid or Benzoyl Peroxide listed. However, Farnesol, Farnesyl acetate, and Propolis Extract are present, which are known to have some potential antimicrobial properties. If acne is caused by certain bacteria or microorganisms like Demodex mites (as the product claims it targets), these ingredients might offer some mild assistance, but they are not typically considered primary treatments for acne or Demodex issues.
  • Question 2: Which ingredient helps tighten pores?
    The ingredients listed are primarily oils, waxes, and emollients. There are no typical astringent ingredients or ingredients widely recognized for significantly tightening pores (like Niacinamide or certain acids) in this formula. The feeling of the skin being smoother or pores appearing less noticeable might be due to the emollient and film-forming nature of the oils and waxes, or it could be a perceived effect rather than actual pore tightening.

3. Bubble Oxygen Cleanser

  • Question 1: Which ingredient is the oxygen?
    You are correct; there is no pure oxygen in the formula. The ingredient responsible for the bubbling effect is likely METHYL PERFLUOROBUTYL ETHER. This is a type of perfluorocarbon that can dissolve gases from the air. When the product is applied to the skin and warms up, the dissolved gas (which is primarily air, not oxygen generated by the skin or product) is released, creating the bubbles. This effect is designed to look like oxygen bubbles and is often marketed with claims about "pushing out" impurities, but it's essentially the release of dissolved air.
  • Question 2: Are SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE, SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE carcinogens?
    No, SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES) and SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS) are not classified as carcinogens. This is a common misconception. They are surfactants widely used in cleansing products (shampoos, body washes, cleansers, etc.) for their ability to create lather and remove oil and dirt. While they can be irritating to the skin or eyes for some individuals, especially at high concentrations or with prolonged contact, they have been extensively studied and are not considered to cause cancer.

In summary, based on the ingredient lists:

  • The Peeling Gel does not contain AHAs, and the peeling effect is likely due to gelling polymers.
  • The Pore Reducing Gel contains some ingredients with potential mild antimicrobial effects but lacks typical acne or pore-tightening actives.
  • The Bubble Cleanser uses Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether to create the bubbling effect (releasing dissolved air), and SLS/SLES are safe surfactants, not carcinogens, although they can be irritating.

It seems some of the product claims might be based on the sensory experience or formulation techniques rather than the presence of specific active ingredients for those claimed functions.