Ingredient Compatibility in Cosmetic Formulations

Asked by: m.chayuti On: July 05, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have questions regarding the compatibility of certain ingredients in cosmetic formulations:

  1. Are prebiotics like Prebio-care (Skin Prebiotic) or NuBiome™ (Skin Microbiome) compatible with, or should they not be used with, Salicylic Acid and its derivatives, and antimicrobial agents such as Micromul™ 10HDA (10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid Microemulsion), Acne-TT™ (Standardized Tea Tree Extract For Acne), or other anti-P. acnes (C. acnes) agents?
  2. Bakuchiol-Eco™ or HR-White™ (4-Hexylresorcinol, e.q. Synovea HR), which are sensitive to metal ions and require a chelating agent, are they compatible with Zinc PCA or Adenosine Phosphate Disodium (AMP-Na)?
  3. Can ingredients like peptides or various proteins be used in a formula that contains a small amount of ethanol or other alcohols (<10%)? (Because the formula needs alcohol as a solvent for other ingredients).
  4. Should B3 + GlucoBright™ + Actin AC be used together? Since Actin AC contains HEXYLRESORCINOL, will their functions overlap?

Answer

Ingredient Compatibility

1. Prebiotics vs. Salicylic Acid and Antimicrobials

Prebiotics like Prebio-care and NuBiome™ are designed to nourish and promote the growth of beneficial bacteria on the skin, helping to balance the skin microbiome and strengthen the skin barrier.

Salicylic Acid and antimicrobial ingredients such as Micromul™ 10HDA and Acne-TT™ work by reducing or inhibiting the growth of bacteria, including P. acnes, which is associated with acne.

Combining prebiotics with strong broad-spectrum antimicrobials or high concentrations of exfoliants like Salicylic Acid can be counterproductive. While the goal is to reduce harmful bacteria, these ingredients might also negatively impact the beneficial bacteria that prebiotics support.

It is generally advisable to be cautious when combining these types of ingredients. If you need to address acne with antimicrobials or exfoliants, consider using them at lower concentrations or in different products applied at different times to minimize potential disruption to the beneficial skin flora. Some anti-acne ingredients, like Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Salicylic Acid, are noted to work well with Actin AC, which also has antibacterial properties, suggesting that certain combinations can be effective if formulated carefully.

2. Bakuchiol-Eco™ or HR-White™ with Zinc PCA or Adenosine Phosphate Disodium (AMP-Na) and Chelating Agents

Both Bakuchiol-Eco™ and HR-White™ (4-Hexylresorcinol) are sensitive to metal ions and require the use of a chelating agent (such as 0.1% Disodium EDTA) in the formula to ensure stability and prevent discoloration caused by trace metal contamination.

Zinc PCA contains zinc ions, and Adenosine Phosphate Disodium (AMP-Na) contains sodium ions. While a chelating agent is added primarily to sequester unwanted trace metals, it will also interact with other metal ions present in the formula, including those from ingredients like Zinc PCA and AMP-Na.

It is possible to formulate with a chelating agent alongside Zinc PCA or AMP-Na. The chelating agent will help protect the metal-sensitive ingredients (Bakuchiol-Eco™ or HR-White™) from degradation due to trace metal contamination. The interaction with the metal ions from Zinc PCA or AMP-Na is generally manageable in a well-formulated product, but it's important to consider the overall formula stability and pH requirements for each ingredient. Zinc PCA is best soluble at pH 4-6, while Bakuchiol-Eco™ requires a pH below 6.5. HR-White™ is soluble in glycols, not water, and should be added below 80°C. Adenosine Phosphate Disodium (AMP-Na) is water-soluble and should be mixed below 40°C. Careful formulation and stability testing are crucial when combining these ingredients.

3. Peptides/Proteins with Small Amounts of Ethanol (<10%)

Peptides and proteins, such as those found in Pep®-Max12, can be sensitive to harsh conditions like high heat and high concentrations of alcohol, which can cause denaturation.

However, using a small amount of ethanol (less than 10%) in a formula, particularly if it's used to dissolve another ingredient and is added at a low temperature during the formulation process, may be acceptable. The key is to minimize the exposure of the peptides to conditions that could degrade them. Pep®-Max12 is a water-soluble blend of peptides that should be added to the formula at temperatures below 40°C.

While a low percentage of ethanol might be tolerated, it is essential to perform stability testing on the final product to ensure that the peptides remain active and the formulation is stable over time.

4. B3 + GlucoBright™ + Actin AC

Combining Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine), and Actin AC is a synergistic approach for addressing multiple skin concerns, including acne and hyperpigmentation.

Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) and GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) are known to work together effectively for skin brightening and reducing dark spots through complementary mechanisms.

Actin AC is a multi-functional ingredient that contains Hexylresorcinol, a potent skin brightener, along with components that target acne, inflammation, and sebum production. The description for Actin AC specifically mentions that it works well with Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid.

Using Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, and Actin AC together leverages their different modes of action for enhanced results. While both the Niacinamide + Acetyl Glucosamine combination and the Hexylresorcinol in Actin AC target hyperpigmentation, they do so via different pathways (e.g., inhibiting melanosome transfer, inhibiting tyrosinase), leading to a more comprehensive brightening effect. Additionally, the anti-acne and anti-inflammatory benefits of Actin AC complement the barrier-strengthening and soothing properties of Niacinamide.

This combination does not present a problematic overlap but rather a potentially powerful synergy for improving skin clarity, tone, and overall health, particularly for acne-prone skin with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

You can find links to all mentioned products below this answer.