Cosmetic Ingredient Properties and Formulation

1. Which of the listed ingredients are sticky?

Based on the product descriptions, the following ingredients may contribute to a sticky or gooey texture in a formulation:

• Panthenol (Vitamin B5): The description mentions that using Panthenol at a rate above 5% may make the product "gooey".
• Xanthan Gum: As a thickener and gelling agent, Xanthan Gum inherently creates viscosity and can contribute to a sticky feel, especially at higher concentrations. The description for the clear gel type notes that the normal type has a "stretchy texture" compared to the smooth type, which can be perceived as sticky.
• MOIST72: While primarily a moisturizer, its mechanism involves retaining moisture, and some highly moisturizing ingredients, especially sugar-based ones like Saccharide Isomerate (the INCI name for MOIST72), can sometimes leave a slightly tacky or sticky feel depending on the concentration and overall formulation.
• Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): The description for the oil-soluble Vitamin E mentions that if used at more than 0.5%, it will cause a "sticky feeling on the skin".
• Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka Pitera): The description notes that using this ingredient in high doses (above 20%) "Might feel a bit greasy / greasy", which can sometimes be associated with a sticky sensation depending on the base.
• Lift-Now: This ingredient creates a temporary film on the skin for tightening, which can sometimes result in a feeling of tightness or slight stickiness, especially if used at higher concentrations (above the recommended 5%).

Other ingredients like 4MSK are mentioned as electrolytes that may affect the texture of gels/creams and make them liquid, but not necessarily sticky. Ingredients like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Ectoine, Willow Bark Extract, Licorice Extract, Japanese Cedar, Skin-mimic, Repair Activator, Wrinkle-Fill, Adenosine Liposome, Pal-GHK, Argireline, Wrinkle-Lax, PiteraEx, Satin Cream Maker, Warp Cream Maker, Laurocapram, Pure-Succinic, Acacia Salicylic Acid, Energy-Blend, and Idebenone do not have descriptions explicitly mentioning stickiness as a characteristic or side effect at recommended usage rates.

2. If the original formula uses Satin Cream Maker 1.5% and Xanthan Gum 0.5% to create the cream texture, how much Warp Cream Maker should be used instead?

The product descriptions provide usage rates for each cream maker.

• Satin Cream Maker is recommended at 1-1.5% for general viscosity, with up to 3% possible for higher viscosity. The example formula uses 1%.
• Xanthan Gum is recommended at 0.1-2% for viscosity, with 1% recommended for general use.
• Warp Cream Maker has a usage rate of 1-30%. The example formula for Warp Cream Maker uses 8%.

Replacing both Satin Cream Maker (1.5%) and Xanthan Gum (0.5%) which together provide thickening and emulsification, with Warp Cream Maker (a water-in-oil/silicone emulsifier) will require a different approach as Warp Cream Maker functions differently. It creates a quick-absorbing, dry, powder-like texture, often used in makeup or sunscreens.

Based on the example formula provided for Warp Cream Maker, a starting point of 7-8% Warp Cream Maker would be appropriate to replace the combination of Satin Cream Maker and Xanthan Gum, keeping in mind that the resulting texture will be significantly different (quick-absorbing, dry feel) compared to a cream made with Satin Cream Maker and Xanthan Gum. The exact percentage may need adjustment based on the desired final texture and the specific oil/silicone content of your formula.

3. Can Warp Cream Maker withstand electrolytes?

The description for Warp Cream Maker does not explicitly state whether it is electrolyte resistant. However, the description for Satin Cream Maker explicitly mentions it is electrolyte resistant and has higher oil binding capacity than Light Cream Maker. The absence of this claim for Warp Cream Maker suggests it may not have the same level of electrolyte resistance as Satin Cream Maker. Formulations containing electrolytes might require testing to ensure stability when using Warp Cream Maker.

4. Can Energy-Blend (which contains Vitamin B3) be used together with Vitamin C?

Energy-Blend contains Caffeine, Adenosine, and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide). The compatibility of Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) with Vitamin C depends on the type of Vitamin C used.

• The description for Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) and Extreme-B3 (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) states that they can be mixed in water and the optimum pH is 3-8 (best at 4.0-7.0).
• The descriptions for L-Ascorbic Acid (Standard, Fine, and Ultra-Fine) state that the optimum pH is 2.0-4.0 (FDA requires at least 3.5) and explicitly mention not to use with Vitamin B3.
• The description for Ethyl Ascorbic Acid states the pH range must be 3.5-6.0 and explicitly mentions not to use with Vitamin B3.
• The description for Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) states the pH range must be 6.5-6.8 and explicitly mentions not to use with Safe-B3.
• The description for Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), an oil-soluble Vitamin C, states the pH must be 5.0-5.5 and explicitly mentions not to use with Vitamin B3.
• The description for Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), a water-soluble Vitamin C, states the pH must be 7-9. It does not explicitly mention not to use with Vitamin B3 in its mixing instructions, but other water-soluble forms do.

Based on the descriptions, most forms of Vitamin C have compatibility issues with Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) at their optimal pH ranges for stability and efficacy. Therefore, Energy-Blend (containing Vitamin B3) should generally not be used together with most forms of Vitamin C in the same formula due to potential compatibility issues and loss of efficacy or stability, particularly concerning the Niacinamide component of Energy-Blend.

5. If Idebenone is used as an antioxidant in the formula, is it still necessary to add Vitamin E or ActiveProtec for antioxidant and ingredient protection?

Idebenone is described as a powerful antioxidant. Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate or dl-alpha tocopherol) and ActiveProtec (ActiveProtec OX and ActiveProtec UV) are also described as antioxidants and/or UV protectors for the formula ingredients.

• Idebenone is a strong antioxidant for the skin.
• Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant for both ingredients in the formula and the skin.
• ActiveProtec OX is a high-performance antioxidant specifically for protecting formula ingredients from oxidation.
• ActiveProtec UV protects formula ingredients from UV light.

While Idebenone provides antioxidant benefits for the skin, it is still beneficial and often necessary to include Vitamin E and/or ActiveProtec in the formula to protect the formula ingredients themselves from degradation due to oxidation and UV exposure, which can affect the stability and efficacy of the entire product, including Idebenone. Vitamin E offers some ingredient protection and skin benefits, while ActiveProtec OX and UV are specifically designed for comprehensive ingredient protection. The choice between Vitamin E and ActiveProtec, or using them in combination, depends on the specific needs of the formula regarding oxidation and UV sensitivity.

6. If the formula uses VersaMoist 2% to adjust texture/reduce stickiness, can Yerba Santa Glycoprotein 5% be added?

• VersaMoist is described as helping to improve the texture of the formula and reduce stickiness, with a usage rate of 0.5-3%.
• Yerba Santa Glycoprotein is described as providing a silicone-like soft and smooth texture and also has moisturizing properties, with a usage rate of 1-5%.

Both ingredients contribute to skin feel and texture. VersaMoist helps reduce stickiness, while Yerba Santa Glycoprotein provides a smooth, silicone-like feel and moisturization. Adding Yerba Santa Glycoprotein at 5% to a formula already containing VersaMoist at 2% should be possible as their functions are complementary (reducing stickiness/improving texture and providing smooth feel/moisturization). There is no explicit incompatibility mentioned in their descriptions. However, the combined effect on the final texture should be evaluated, as adding another ingredient that influences texture might alter the feel provided by VersaMoist alone. Testing the specific combination in your formula is recommended to achieve the desired texture.