Ingredient Recommendations for Acne and Melasma Creams
Question
Could you recommend ingredients for formulating skin creams specifically targeting acne and melasma? Please suggest ingredients suitable for a cream base, including details on their usage concentration, solubility (water or oil), and any specific precautions or optimal conditions (like pH or temperature) for incorporation into the formula.
Answer
Recommended Ingredients for Skin Creams
For formulating skin creams targeting acne and melasma, you can select specific ingredients with properties to address these concerns.
Cream Formulation for Acne
Here are some interesting ingredients for acne treatment creams:
- Pep®-Acne (Oligopeptide-10 Anti-microbial Peptide): This peptide has antibacterial properties effective against acne-causing bacteria. It can be used in acne treatment products at a concentration of 5% and is water-soluble.
- Acne-TT™ (Standardized Tea Tree Extract For Acne): A standardized Tea Tree Extract with high Terpinen-4-ol content, it helps reduce inflammation, kill bacteria, and control oiliness. Suitable for acne products at 0.1-0.5%, soluble in oil.
- Actin AC (5-in-1 Anti-Acne): A comprehensive ingredient addressing multiple acne issues including oil control, inflammation reduction, PIH reduction, keratinization regulation, and bacterial reduction. Use at 2-4%, soluble in oil. Avoid heat above 50°C.
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble): Licorice extract helps reduce inflammation, redness from inflammation, irritation, and skin oiliness. Use at 0.5-3% (0.5-1.0% recommended for oiliness and acne treatment), soluble in water.
Cream Formulation for Melasma
Ingredients that help lighten melasma and brighten the skin include:
- Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol): Brightens skin, reduces the activity of the enzyme Tyrosinase responsible for pigment production, and helps combat melasma. Use at 0.1-2.0% (maximum 1.0% for leave-on products), soluble in oil. Should be used with Disodium EDTA 0.2% to prevent discoloration and stored away from light and heat. The optimal pH is 4.5-5.5.
- Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377): Helps brighten skin, inhibits Tyrosinase, and has antioxidant properties. Use at 0.1-1.0% (0.5% recommended for leave-on products), soluble in oil. Should be used with Disodium EDTA for stability and stored in light/air protective packaging. The optimal pH is 4-5. Avoid certain ingredients like Carbomer, Carbopol, PEG-400, Amino Acids, Urea, or protein groups.
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Helps brighten skin and reduce melanin formation, suitable for melasma and dark spots. Can be used up to 3% in cosmetics. Soluble in water. The optimal pH is 3-8. Should be used with ActiveProtec™ OX 0.5% to help prevent long-term discoloration.
- MelaninTerminate™: A protein extracted from pearls that inhibits melanin production through a different mechanism than typical whitening agents. Use at 0.01-0.1%, soluble in water. Avoid heat and store in the refrigerator for long-term preservation.
When formulating, it is important to carefully study the mixing instructions and precautions for each ingredient and test the compatibility of ingredients before production.
Related Products Mentioned
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
MelaninTerminate™