Ingredient Solubility Issue in Whitening Moisturizing Cream

Question

I am making a whitening moisturizing cream intended to reduce irritation and minor melasma. The formula is 50g and includes the following ingredients:

Water
Trans-White 4%
Soy Extract 10%
B3 5%
WaterLock 1%
Natto Gum 5%
TreMoisture 3%
Creatine 100 1%
Aloe Vera Extract 1%
Olive Oil 5%
glycerin 5%
Ethoxydiglycol 20%
Dimethicone 5%
Light Cream Maker 2%
Preservative 1%

My mixing procedure is as follows:

Combine all water-soluble ingredients in the water phase.
Combine Olive Oil, Ethoxydiglycol, Dimethicone, and Light Cream Maker in the oil phase.
Add the water phase to the oil phase, stir until combined, then add the preservative.

I believe the TreMoisture did not dissolve. I tried adding more water to the finished cream and stirring repeatedly, but it still did not dissolve. When applied to the skin, it dissolves after rubbing for a while, but it is quite painful because the undissolved particles are hard.

How can I make the TreMoisture dissolve properly?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Undissolved ingredient in cream

Hello,

It sounds like you're having trouble dissolving the Trehalose (TreMoisture) in your cream formulation. Trehalose is a water-soluble ingredient and should be dissolved in the water phase of your formulation.

Based on your description, the most likely reason for the Trehalose not dissolving is that it wasn't fully dissolved in the water phase before you combined it with the oil phase. Once the emulsion is formed, it becomes much harder for solid particles to dissolve within the cream structure. Adding more water to the finished cream is also unlikely to help significantly.

Here's what you can try to ensure the Trehalose dissolves properly:

Ensure complete dissolution in the water phase: When preparing your water phase, make sure all water-soluble ingredients, including Trehalose, are completely dissolved before mixing with the oil phase.
Apply gentle heat: Trehalose dissolves better in warm water. You can gently heat your water phase (e.g., to 40-50°C) while stirring to help the Trehalose dissolve faster and more completely. Stir until the solution is clear and no particles are visible.
Consider total solute concentration: Your formulation has a relatively high percentage of various water-soluble ingredients. While 3% Trehalose is normally soluble, the combined concentration of all solutes in the water phase might be high, making dissolution more challenging. Ensuring sufficient water and thorough mixing with heat in the water phase is crucial.

By ensuring the Trehalose is fully dissolved in the water phase before emulsification, you should avoid the issue of hard particles in your final cream.