Ingredient Usage and Formulation Questions (Papain, DMI, Gelling Agents, Diglycerin)

Asked by: insawang.ch On: May 13, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have several questions regarding cosmetic formulation:

  1. What is the appropriate usage percentage for Papain to achieve good effectiveness without causing excessive irritation?
  2. Could you recommend the usage percentage for Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) when used with Sym White 0.5%?
  3. Between Xanthan Gum and Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, which ingredient, when used to thicken/gel a formula, provides a light, non-sticky texture that absorbs well into the skin?
  4. Could you recommend the usage percentage for Diglycerin to provide skin hydration when used together with Double Hyaluron 2%?

Thank you.

Answer

Formulation Advice

Here is some guidance on the usage of the ingredients you asked about:

1. Linked Papain Usage

For Linked Papain (e.q. X-PRESSIN C), the recommended usage rate is typically 1-5%. This range is suggested to provide effective exfoliation while minimizing irritation. Linked Papain is designed for improved stability compared to standard Papain when dissolved in water. Keep in mind that Papain enzymes are sensitive to pH (optimal range 5.5-7.0) and heat (avoid temperatures above 40°C). For optimal stability and shelf life, especially for standard Papain, storing the finished product at a low temperature (6-15°C) is recommended.

2. Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) with Sym White

When using Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) with 0.5% Phenylethyl Resorcinol (Sym White), DMI acts as a penetration enhancer to help the Sym White absorb better into the skin, potentially increasing its effectiveness. The typical usage rate for DMI as a carrier is 1-10%, with 3% often recommended for transporting ingredients. You can use DMI in the range of 1-5% alongside 0.5% Sym White, adjusting based on your desired skin feel and effectiveness.

3. Xanthan Gum vs. Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) Texture

Between Xanthan Gum and Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) for creating a gel with a light, non-sticky feel that absorbs well, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) is generally preferred. HEC typically produces gels with a smoother, less stringy, and less sticky texture compared to many types of Xanthan Gum, leading to a more comfortable feel on the skin and better absorption.

4. Diglycerin with Double Hyaluron

To provide skin hydration using Diglycerin alongside 2% Double Hyaluron Liquid, you can use Diglycerin at a rate of 1-10%. Diglycerin is an effective humectant that helps retain moisture in the skin. Combining it with Double Hyaluron Liquid, which provides hydration at different molecular weights, will enhance the overall moisturizing effect. The specific percentage within the 1-10% range can be adjusted based on the desired level of hydration and the overall feel of your formulation.