Ingredients and Formulation for Cracked Heel Cream

Question

I am looking for guidance on formulating a cream for cracked heels. The cream should address both exfoliation and deep moisturization. What types of ingredients are recommended for this purpose, and what are their typical usage percentages? Specifically, please provide details on:

Peeling/Keratolytic Agents: Which ingredients are suitable for softening and removing thickened skin, and what are their recommended concentrations and forms (e.g., Urea, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid)? How should they be incorporated into the formula?
Humectants: Which ingredients help attract and retain moisture, and what are their typical usage levels and mixing phases (e.g., Glycerin, Allantoin, PreB5™)?
Emollients & Occlusives: Which ingredients smooth the skin and create a barrier to prevent moisture loss, and how are they typically used (e.g., Shea Butter, LipidSoft™ Lactic)?

Additionally, could you provide general guidance on the proportions of these ingredient types in a complete cream formula, considering factors like desired texture?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Ingredients for Cracked Heel Cream

To formulate a cream for cracked heels, which requires both exfoliation and deep moisturization, you can incorporate the following types of ingredients:

1. Peeling/Keratolytic Agents

These help soften and remove the thickened, dry skin typical of cracked heels.

Urea: Highly effective for both moisturizing and exfoliating. Use at 3-20% for moisturizing and 10-20% for a stronger peeling effect. Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder) and HYDRO-UREA® Liquid are available forms. Note that Urea powder needs stabilization (e.g., with Gluconolactone or Triacetin) and dissolves in water. HYDRO-UREA® Liquid is easier to use but also benefits from stabilization.
Salicylic Acid (BHA): Known for its ability to exfoliate and dissolve clogged pores. The standard Salicylic Acid (BHA) powder is not water-soluble and needs to be dissolved in solvents like Propylene Glycol. ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid is a water-soluble powder form that is gentler and releases gradually, usable at 1-5% (equivalent to up to 2% pure Salicylic Acid). FDA limits Salicylic Acid to 2% in leave-on cosmetics.
Lactic Acid: An Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) that exfoliates and hydrates. LipidSoft™ Lactic is an oil-soluble ester form that provides moisturizing and gentle exfoliating effects. It can be used at 1-10% and is mixed into the oil phase.

2. Humectants

These ingredients attract and retain moisture in the skin, essential for hydrating dry, cracked skin.

Glycerin: A very common and effective humectant. Use at 1-100% (typically 2-10% in creams). It is water-soluble and mixed into the water phase.
Allantoin: Helps reduce irritation, soothe the skin, and support tissue repair. It is water-soluble (though with limited solubility at room temperature, around 0.5%). Use at 0.1-2.0% (0.5% is often sufficient due to solubility limits). Mix into the water phase.
PreB5™ (Pantolactone, Pantoyl Lactone): A precursor to Vitamin B5, acts as an effective moisturizer and helps strengthen the skin barrier. Use at 0.5-1.0% (1% recommended). It is water-soluble and mixed into the water phase.

3. Emollients & Occlusives

These smooth the skin surface and create a protective barrier to prevent moisture loss, crucial for healing cracks.

Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): A rich natural fat that provides excellent moisturizing and skin-repairing benefits. It is mixed into the oil phase by heating to melt it (60-70°C). Can be used at 1-100% depending on the desired richness.
LipidSoft™ Lactic: (Mentioned above under Peeling) Also functions as an emollient, providing a smooth feel and helping to dissolve into the oil phase.

Proportions

Exact proportions for a complete cream formula will depend on the desired texture (e.g., a lighter lotion vs. a thick balm) and the specific emulsifier and thickener system used. However, you can start by incorporating the peeling agents (like Urea at 10-20% or Salicylic Acid at 1-2%) along with a significant amount of humectants (Glycerin 5-10%) and emollients/occlusives (Shea Butter 5-15% or more, plus other oils/butters). Remember to include an emulsifier to combine the water and oil phases, a thickener to achieve the desired consistency, and a preservative system.