Ingredients for Faster Skin Absorption and Penetration

Question

What ingredients can be used to make cosmetic formulations absorb faster, and what is the difference between ingredients that improve the feeling of absorption versus those that improve actual penetration of active ingredients into the skin? What are examples of such ingredients?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Ingredients for Faster Skin Absorption

To make your cream or serum feel like it absorbs into the skin faster, you can use ingredients that fall into two main categories:

1. Emollients that Improve Skin Feel

These ingredients help the product spread easily, feel lighter, less sticky, and absorb quickly on the surface, giving the sensation of fast absorption. They don't necessarily increase the penetration of other active ingredients.

Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone): A lightweight silicone that evaporates quickly, leaving a silky, non-sticky feel. Recommended usage rate is typically 1-20% in creams or lotions.
Isododecane (Germany / Ultra Lite / Gel): An ultra-lightweight emollient that evaporates quickly and doesn't clog pores. It leaves no sticky residue and is suitable for oil-free formulas. Usage rate is typically 1-25%.
LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Nonanoate): A very light emollient that doesn't clog pores. It was developed as a silicone replacement, providing a light, soft, and smooth feel similar to Cyclomethicone but without silicone. Usage rate is 1-100%.
LipidSoft™ Cyclo (e.q. Cetiol Ultimate): An emollient designed to replace Cyclomethicone, offering a similar smooth feel but evaporating faster. It enhances spreadability and provides a very light, smooth feel. Usage rate is 1-20%.
LipidSoft™ D5 (Cyclomethicone Replacer): A silicone-free replacement for Cyclomethicone (D5). It provides good volatility, slip, cushion, and a dry, light, luxurious feel. Usage rate is 1-100%.

2. Penetration Enhancers

These ingredients actually help other active ingredients in your formulation penetrate deeper into the skin.

Tetrahydropiperine (Natural Penetration Enhancer): An extract from black pepper known for its ability to help transport various ingredients into the skin. It is used at a very low rate of 0.01% and needs to be dissolved in a suitable solvent before adding to the formula.

For a formulation that feels light and absorbs well, while also helping active ingredients penetrate, a combination of emollients for improved skin feel and a penetration enhancer might be beneficial.