Ingredients to Enhance Skin Penetration in Creams and Serums

Asked by: teerawut1to3 On: July 04, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

What ingredients can be added to creams or serums to help active extracts penetrate the skin?

If the extract is oil-based, do I need a different carrier compared to carrying water-based extracts?

Answer

Ingredients to Enhance Skin Penetration

Several ingredients can be added to creams or serums to help active extracts penetrate the skin more effectively. Some common types include:

  • Penetration Enhancers: These are substances that directly help carry active ingredients into the skin. Examples include:
    • Tetrahydropiperine: A natural extract that helps transport various ingredients.
    • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): A widely used solvent and carrier, particularly effective for water-soluble ingredients.
    • Laurocapram: Available in both water-soluble and oil-soluble versions for specific needs.
    • 1,2-Hexanediol and Ethoxydiglycol: Can be used to boost the efficiency of other carriers and offer additional benefits like dissolving ingredients or moisturizing.
  • Phospholipids (e.g., Hydrogenated Lecithin): These can be used for encapsulating ingredients to increase absorption, solubility, and stability. They are versatile and suitable for carrying both water-soluble and oil-soluble substances.
  • Reservoir-Tech: This ingredient works differently by forming a film on the skin that helps retain active ingredients and release them gradually. It is primarily suitable for water-soluble actives and can help reduce irritation by controlling absorption.

Carrying Water-Soluble vs. Oil-Soluble Extracts

Regarding whether the same ingredient can carry both water-soluble and oil-soluble extracts, Phospholipids are generally suitable for carrying both types of ingredients, often through encapsulation techniques.

Other carriers like Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) are primarily effective for water-soluble ingredients. For oil-soluble extracts, specific oil-soluble carriers like Laurocapram (Oil-Soluble) or using Phospholipids as mentioned above would be more appropriate.

Answer Update
Updated Review: May 2026

This section was added after reviewing the original answer against current product availability and formulation knowledge at the stated point in time.

As of May 17, 2026, the penetration enhancers mentioned above remain effective industry standards. For modern formulations, BioSorb™ (Sodium Surfactin) is now recommended as a high-efficiency, bio-fermented delivery enhancer. It works at very low concentrations to significantly improve the solubility and skin penetration of both water and oil-soluble actives. For advanced oil-based delivery, Phospholipids used in liposomal encapsulation continue to be the gold standard for ensuring deep and stable absorption.