Ingredients to Enhance Skin Penetration in Creams and Serums

Asked by: teerawut1to3 On: July 04, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

What ingredients can be added to creams or serums to help active extracts penetrate the skin?

If the extract is oil-based, do I need a different carrier compared to carrying water-based extracts?

Answer

Ingredients to Enhance Skin Penetration

Several ingredients can be added to creams or serums to help active extracts penetrate the skin more effectively. Some common types include:

  • Penetration Enhancers: These are substances that directly help carry active ingredients into the skin. Examples include:
    • Tetrahydropiperine: A natural extract that helps transport various ingredients.
    • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): A widely used solvent and carrier, particularly effective for water-soluble ingredients.
    • Laurocapram: Available in both water-soluble and oil-soluble versions for specific needs.
    • 1,2-Hexanediol and Ethoxydiglycol: Can be used to boost the efficiency of other carriers and offer additional benefits like dissolving ingredients or moisturizing.
  • Phospholipids (e.g., Hydrogenated Lecithin): These can be used for encapsulating ingredients to increase absorption, solubility, and stability. They are versatile and suitable for carrying both water-soluble and oil-soluble substances.
  • Reservoir-Tech: This ingredient works differently by forming a film on the skin that helps retain active ingredients and release them gradually. It is primarily suitable for water-soluble actives and can help reduce irritation by controlling absorption.

Carrying Water-Soluble vs. Oil-Soluble Extracts

Regarding whether the same ingredient can carry both water-soluble and oil-soluble extracts, Phospholipids are generally suitable for carrying both types of ingredients, often through encapsulation techniques.

Other carriers like Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) are primarily effective for water-soluble ingredients. For oil-soluble extracts, specific oil-soluble carriers like Laurocapram (Oil-Soluble) or using Phospholipids as mentioned above would be more appropriate.