Inquiry about Traditional Cold Cream Formulation: Borax, Waxes, and Emulsification

Asked by: jn_andy On: March 26, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding a traditional Cold Cream formulation, I have the following questions:

  1. Does Borax act as a preservative? Can it be replaced with another ingredient?
  2. Which products from myskinrecipes.com can be used to replace Cetyl esters wax and white wax?
  3. The formula does not list a specific water-oil emulsifier. How does the emulsification occur?

Answer

Hello,

Based on the information and previous discussion, here are the answers to your questions:

  1. Does Borax act as a preservative? Can it be replaced?
    In traditional Cold Cream formulas, Borax serves two main functions: it acts as an emulsifier to help water and oil mix, and it enhances the effectiveness of the preservative system (although it is not a primary preservative itself, it helps adjust pH and has some properties that inhibit microorganisms).
    Replacing Borax in this formula is difficult because Borax plays a crucial role in creating the specific texture of Cold Cream. Without Borax, the formula may separate easily, and finding a single ingredient to perform both functions without significantly altering other proportions is challenging. Furthermore, there are current safety concerns regarding the use of Borax on the skin, so its use is often avoided.

  2. Which products from myskinrecipes.com can replace Cetyl esters wax and white wax?

    • Cetyl esters wax in traditional formulas often refers to Spermaceti, which is no longer used. A common replacement with similar properties is Cetyl Alcohol. On the myskinrecipes.com website, Cetyl Alcohol (Vegetable) is available and is likely what you are looking for. (Product ID 173)
    • White wax in traditional Cold Cream formulas refers to Beeswax that has been bleached. On the myskinrecipes.com website, Beeswax (Cera Alba) is available and is White Beeswax. (Product ID 206)
  3. There is no water-oil emulsifier listed. How does it emulsify?
    In this traditional Cold Cream formula, Borax acts as the emulsifier. Borax reacts with the free fatty acids present in Beeswax to form a soap, which functions as the emulsifier, helping the water and oil combine and remain stable as a cream.

Since this is a traditional formula with a very high oil ratio and uses Borax as the primary emulsifier (which is not commonly used today), modifying the formula while keeping the original proportions is difficult and may result in a different texture or stability.

Hope this information is helpful. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!

Related Products Mentioned