Instability in Hair Styling Product Emulsion After Adding Lactic Acid
Question
I have a hair styling product formulation that was stable at pH 7.1. I added Lactic Acid to the formula, using PEG-40 and Glyceryl Stearate SE as emulsifiers. After adding Lactic Acid, the emulsion became unstable and separated.
I understand that Lactic Acid is sometimes found in shampoos for hair conditioning benefits, not just pH adjustment.
How can I fix this instability? I am considering the following options:
- Cutting
Lactic Acidfrom the formula. - Changing the emulsifier system.
- Increasing the amount of the current emulsifiers.
- Changing
Lactic Acidto another acid.
Please advise on the best approach to regain stability.
Answer
Hello,
Regarding the issue of your hair styling product emulsion becoming unstable after adding Lactic Acid, it's likely due to an incompatibility between the Lactic Acid and your emulsifier system (PEG-40 and Glyceryl Stearate SE). Acids can sometimes disrupt the stability of certain emulsions.
As the staff previously advised, a pH of 7.1 is perfectly acceptable for hair styling products as it is close to the natural pH of hair and skin (around 5.5). There is no strict requirement to lower the pH further if 7.1 is already suitable and stable.
Considering your options:
- Cutting Lactic Acid from the formula: This is the most straightforward solution. Since pH 7.1 is acceptable and stable, removing the ingredient that caused instability will likely restore the desired texture. This aligns with the staff's recommendation.
- Changing emulsifiers: This is a possibility if you absolutely need to incorporate Lactic Acid or achieve a lower pH. Some emulsifiers are more acid-stable than others. However, this requires significant reformulation and testing.
- Increasing emulsifiers: While sometimes helpful, simply increasing the amount of the current emulsifiers might not overcome a fundamental incompatibility issue with Lactic Acid and could alter the product's feel.
- Changing Lactic Acid to another acid: Different acids have varying strengths and compatibility profiles. This is another option if pH adjustment is necessary, but also requires testing.
Given that your original formula at pH 7.1 was stable and deemed appropriate by the staff, the recommended course of action is to revert to that formula by removing the Lactic Acid.
Your observation about Lactic Acid being found in shampoos is correct; as the staff mentioned, it's often included there for its hair conditioning benefits, which is a different purpose than pH adjustment and might be compatible with different formulation bases.
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