Issues and Adjustment for Test Formula ID20569: Color, Separation, Particles

Question

Hello. I ordered a test cosmetic formula, ID20569 SNOWFLAKES MICRO CRYSTAL LUMIÈRE, and selected 'no adjustments requested'. The production took longer than expected, and I was informed that the R&D team attempted adjustments despite my request, stating they 'forgot to check that the customer selected no adjustment'. I appreciate the effort but request more careful attention to detail. I also sent 5 inquiries via message on the formula page between February 14th and March 11th regarding issues with the formula, but received no response. It feels like a long time to wait for a response, especially since the issues are with my own formula that I accepted without adjustments. However, I would like to pay the 300 baht fee to adjust the formula, but I haven't received any guidance or answers to my questions.

Previously, I ordered a formula where I also selected 'no adjustments', but the team still messaged me to inform me of issues and suggest adjustments before production, which I appreciated. I understand that by selecting 'no adjustments', the team has no right to modify the formula, and I must accept any outcome (e.g., formula doesn't work, has problems). However, I would like to suggest that if a customer selects 'no adjustments' but the formula has problems, the team or R&D should inform the customer about the specific issues. This way, the customer can be aware and potentially fix the formula promptly before the first batch is produced, agreeing to pay the 300 baht adjustment fee immediately. I have no problem with this, just please inform me instead of letting me wait to see the result when the product arrives.

Regarding the issues with my formula, they are as follows:
3.1) The formula has a dark brown color. Customer service informed me that some ingredients are incompatible and reacted, but that the ingredient is not active. I would like to know which ingredient caused this?
3.2) The formula separates. I later confirmed that the formula has quite high electrolyte content. I accept this and want to adjust the formula for better stability.
3.3) The formula contains brown particles, similar to beads. I am unsure what caused this?

The original formula details are:
1) Silicone Gel (ultra) 5%
2) Dimethicone 1Secs 5%
3) Satin cream 1%
4) Light lotion 2%
5) DMI 3%
6) Mild Preserved 1%
7) EDTA 0.2%
8) Xanthan Gum (ชนิดใส) 0.5%
9) Vitamin E (dl) 1%
10) Protec UV 0.1%
11) Butylene Glycol 3%
12) Allantoin 0.2%
13) Squalane 3%
14) B3 Switzerland 10%
15) Deoxyarbutin 0.5%
16) Sym-White 0.5%
17) Ume Extract 2%
18) 4MSK 2%
19) Z-White 1%
20) Nonapeptide-1 1%
21) Ethoxydiglycol 2%
22) Creatine 100 1%
23) 4D Hyaluronic 3%
24) Pea-Ex 5%
25) Mineral Ready 2%
26) TXC 2%
27) Magnolia Flower EX 1%
28) Rose EX 1%
29) Jasminum Flower EX 1%
30) Water 40%

I would like to adjust the formula approximately as follows. Is this suitable? Please provide additional recommendations. I am willing to pay the 300 baht adjustment fee.

Proposed Revised Formula:
2) Dimethicone 1Secs 7%
3) Satin cream 1.5%
8) Xanthan Gum (ชนิดใส) 1%
9) Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1%
11) Butylene Glycol 5%
25) Remove

Protec OX 0.05%
VersaMoist 1%
Magnesium Sulfate 1%
ClayThick 0.5%
Tranexamic Acid 3%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Dear Customer,

Thank you for your detailed feedback regarding your formula ID20569 SNOWFLAKES MICRO CRYSTAL LUMIÈRE. We sincerely apologize for the extended production time, the lack of communication regarding your inquiries, and the issues you experienced with the first batch.

Your feedback on informing customers about potential formula issues, even when 'no adjustment' is selected, is highly valuable. We will forward this suggestion to our R&D and customer service teams for review and process improvement.

Regarding the issues with the original formula:

Dark brown color and brown particles: Based on the ingredient list, the most likely cause is an interaction between certain ingredients, particularly phenolic compounds (like Sym-White, Protec UV, and potentially some extracts) and metal ions present in the formula. Mineral Ready, which contains Zinc and Copper Gluconate, is a significant source of these metal ions. This interaction can lead to oxidation and the formation of colored substances or precipitates, explaining both the color change and the particles.
Separation: As you correctly identified, the formula likely has a high electrolyte load. Ingredients like Mineral Ready (Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate) and potentially others contribute electrolytes. Electrolytes can destabilize emulsions and interfere with thickeners like Xanthan Gum, leading to separation.

Your proposed adjusted formula addresses these issues effectively, particularly by removing Mineral Ready. Let's review your proposed changes:

Removing Mineral Ready is an excellent step. This directly eliminates the primary source of metal ions and a major source of electrolytes, which should resolve the dark color, brown particles, and significantly improve stability against separation.
Increasing Satin Cream and Xanthan Gum are good steps to enhance emulsion stability and viscosity.
Adding ClayThick is also a positive addition for stabilizing the cream structure.
Adding Protec OX provides additional antioxidant protection.
Adding VersaMoist is a good addition for hydration.
However, please note the addition of Magnesium Sulfate. Magnesium Sulfate is an electrolyte. While removing Mineral Ready is a big improvement, adding Magnesium Sulfate reintroduces electrolytes, which could still pose a challenge to the stability of the formula, especially with Xanthan Gum. We recommend carefully testing the stability of the formula with Magnesium Sulfate included.
You are adding Tranexamic Acid (3%) in addition to the existing TXC (Cetyl Tranexamate HCl, 2%). This results in a high total concentration of tranexamic derivatives (5%). While potentially effective for brightening, please ensure the solubility of Tranexamic Acid at this concentration in the final formula and check the overall pH, as it is an acidic ingredient.

Overall, your proposed adjustments, especially removing Mineral Ready and adding stabilizers like Satin Cream, Xanthan Gum, and ClayThick, are well-reasoned and should significantly improve the formula's stability and appearance. We recommend proceeding with these changes, keeping in mind the potential impact of Magnesium Sulfate and the high concentration of tranexamic derivatives.

We can proceed with adjusting the formula based on your proposed list, incorporating the feedback above. The fee for formula adjustment is 300 baht.

Please let us know if you would like to proceed with this adjusted formula.

Thank you again for your valuable feedback and patience.