Issues with a Night Whitening Cream Formula: High Actives & Missing Base

Asked by: sanook733 On: February 24, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to create a night whitening cream formula using the following ingredients and percentages. However, I'm encountering issues. Could you please review and advise on the formula?

My proposed formula includes:

  • Glycolic Acid (AHA) powder: 40%
  • MSH White: 8%
  • Carbomer 940: 1%

Based on this, I have some questions about the formulation, particularly regarding the high concentrations and the base.

Answer

Based on the discussion and the feedback provided, the proposed formula for a night whitening cream has a few points that need adjustment:

  1. Missing Base: The formula lists active ingredients and thickener but does not include a base ingredient like water or a cream base. A complete formulation requires a base, and the percentages of all ingredients, including the base, must add up to 100%. Without a base, it's not possible to properly dissolve or disperse the ingredients, especially powders like Glycolic Acid.
  2. High Ingredient Percentages:
    • Glycolic Acid (AHA): The proposed 40% concentration is significantly higher than the recommended maximum usage rate. According to the product information, the recommended maximum for general users is 10%, and under doctor supervision, it's up to 30%. Using 40% is likely to cause severe irritation and is not recommended for home use.
    • MSH White: The proposed 8% concentration is also higher than the recommended usage range of 4-6%. While perhaps less critical than the AHA percentage, it's best to stay within the recommended range for optimal results and safety.
  3. Combining Actives: As suggested in the discussion, using a high concentration of AHA (an exfoliant) together with other whitening actives in a single formula might cause irritation or stability issues. It might be better to use AHA as a separate step or at a much lower concentration in combination formulas.

It is crucial to always check the recommended usage rates and formulation guidelines provided on the product page for each ingredient before creating a formula. Adjusting the percentages of Glycolic Acid and MSH White to be within the recommended ranges and including an appropriate base will make the formula safer and more effective.