Issues with Cream/Gel Formulation and Thickening

Hello,

Regarding the issues you reported about your gel/cream formulations not forming properly in Formula 1 and 2, and the failure of AnyGel to thicken, here is an explanation of the causes and suggested solutions:

Overview of the Problem:

The main issue preventing your formulas from forming a gel or cream texture and causing oil separation is likely related to the choice and/or concentration of the emulsifier, which may not be suitable for the overall composition of the formula. This is particularly true when the formula contains a high amount of water-soluble active ingredients, some of which are salts or electrolytes that can interfere with certain emulsifiers and thickeners.

Question 1: Why didn't Formula 1 become a cream? How to fix it?

Formula 1 uses SiliSolve Plus as an emulsifier, which is an O/W (Oil-in-Water) emulsifier designed for formulas containing silicones and oils. However, this formula contains a relatively high amount of various water-soluble ingredients (e.g., B3, GlucoBright, B5, Aloe, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Amino Acids, Hyaluronic Acid Nano, Natto Gum, Betaine, Glycerin). Some of these are electrolytes (e.g., Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Amino Acids). High concentrations of electrolytes can reduce the effectiveness or make it difficult for some emulsifiers, including SiliSolve Plus in some cases, to form a stable emulsion at the specified concentration of 1.5%.

Solutions for Formula 1:

1. Increase SiliSolve Plus Concentration: Try increasing the amount of SiliSolve Plus in the formula, perhaps starting at 2-3%, and observe the results.
2. Improve Mixing Method:
   • Ensure the oil phase (Sweet Almond Oil, SiliSolve Plus, Vit E) is well mixed and homogeneous.
   • Mix all water phase ingredients (B3, GlucoBright, B5, Aloe, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Amino Acids, Hyaluronic Acid Nano, Natto Gum, Phenoxyethanol SA, Betaine, Glycerin, water, Lactic Acid) thoroughly until a clear liquid is obtained.
   • Gradually add the water phase to the oil phase while blending slowly at first, then increase to a sufficiently high speed to ensure good dispersion and emulsion formation. Maintain high-speed blending for a period after all the water phase has been added.
3. Consider a Co-emulsifier or Different Emulsifier: If increasing SiliSolve Plus doesn't work, you may need to consider using a different O/W emulsifier that is more tolerant to electrolytes or use SiliSolve Plus in combination with a suitable co-emulsifier.

Question 2: Why didn't adding AnyGel help form a gel?

AnyGel is Dehydroxanthan Gum, a water phase thickener. The reason adding AnyGel didn't form a gel in this formula is primarily due to:

1. Incorrect Mixing Method: AnyGel should be added and dispersed in the water phase before combining the water phase with the oil phase. This allows the AnyGel to hydrate (absorb water and swell) fully. Adding AnyGel later to an unstable emulsion or separated mixture may prevent it from dispersing and hydrating properly.
2. Electrolyte Interference: As mentioned, several active ingredients in this formula are electrolytes. High amounts of electrolytes can reduce the thickening efficiency of Xanthan Gum and its derivatives like AnyGel, preventing it from building viscosity as expected.

Solution for Thickening:

• If you need to thicken the formula, you should choose a water phase thickener that is more tolerant to electrolytes, such as certain types of Synthetic Polymer thickeners designed for high-electrolyte formulas. This thickener should be fully hydrated in the water phase to form a gel before combining it with the oil phase.

Question 3: Why didn't Formula 2 become a cream? How to fix it?

Formula 2 uses W/O ezy as an emulsifier, which, based on its name, is likely a W/O (Water-in-Oil) emulsifier. This type of emulsifier is designed to create emulsions where the water phase is dispersed within the oil phase, typically used in formulas with a higher oil content than water content.

Formula 2 has a very high water phase content (Water qs to 100% plus several water-soluble actives totaling about 17.1%). Attempting to create a Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsion in a formula where water is the primary component is generally not feasible, leading to oil separation on top and clumping when blending stops.

Solution for Formula 2:

• You must switch to an appropriate O/W (Oil-in-Water) emulsifier suitable for formulas with a high water content and the presence of electrolytes, similar to the recommendations for Formula 1.

Additional Observation:

Your success in achieving a good cream texture using Silky Serum Base Plus 10% indicates that this base contains an emulsifier system and/or thickeners that are suitable and compatible with the active ingredients you are using. This confirms that the issue is not necessarily with the active ingredients themselves, but with the chosen emulsifier/thickener system and method in Formulas 1 and 2.

Summary of Recommended Steps:

1. For Formula 1 (using SiliSolve Plus): Try increasing the concentration of SiliSolve Plus and refining your blending method. If issues persist, consider using a different O/W emulsifier that is more electrolyte-tolerant or using a co-emulsifier. If thickening is desired, select an electrolyte-tolerant water phase thickener and incorporate it correctly into the water phase before emulsification.
2. For Formula 2 (using W/O ezy): You need to switch to an appropriate O/W emulsifier suitable for high-water content, electrolyte-rich formulas.
3. Incorporating AnyGel (or other Water Phase Thickeners): If using a water phase thickener, it must be fully hydrated in the water phase to form a gel before combining the water phase with the oil phase. Ensure the chosen thickener is compatible with the electrolytes in your formula.

I hope this advice helps you improve your formulations. Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions.