Issues with Morning Cream Formulation (Emulsifier, Preservative, Sunscreen)
Question
I am formulating a morning cream with sunscreen. I would like to request a review of my formula and advice on its suitability, focusing on potential issues related to emulsification, preservation, ingredient concentrations, and overall effectiveness for daytime use with sun protection. My formula includes:
- 1,2-Hexanediol 1.5%
- Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) 2%
- Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (Nano) 2%
Answer
- Emulsification: Your current formula does not include any emulsifiers, which are necessary to properly mix the water-based and oil-based ingredients. Without emulsifiers, the formula will not combine correctly.
- Preservative Concentration: The concentration of 1,2-Hexanediol at 1.5% is not sufficient for preservation. The recommended concentration for this ingredient as a preservative is 3%.
- Hyaluronic Acid Concentration: Using Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) at 2% is higher than needed. A concentration of 0.5% is generally sufficient, and the staff recommends 0.2-0.3% for optimal results without using an excessive amount.
- Sunscreen Concentration: The concentration of Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (Nano) at 2% is not enough to provide adequate sun protection in Thailand's environment. For effective sun protection in a morning cream, a concentration of at least 5% is recommended.
- Formula Strategy (Morning vs. Night): The staff suggests that a formula with such a high number of active ingredients is more suitable for a night cream. A morning cream, especially one intended to include sunscreen, should ideally have a lighter texture and focus on 2-3 key active ingredients along with sufficient sunscreen. The current complex formula would be much more appropriate for nighttime use.
Therefore, to make this formula viable, you would need to add an emulsifier system, adjust the concentration of 1,2-Hexanediol for preservation, reduce the Hyaluronic Acid concentration, and significantly increase the sunscreen concentration if intended for morning use with sun protection. However, the staff's main recommendation is to use this rich blend of active ingredients as a night cream and create a separate, simpler formula for daytime that prioritizes adequate sun protection.
Related Products Mentioned
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Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Double Hyaluron Liquid
MSH White Absorb™
ODA-White Plus™
Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (Nano)