Formulation Feedback and Recommendations

Regarding your latest proposed formula for a body product aiming for 12% L-Ascorbic Acid to stimulate collagen:

Your formula includes:

• 12% L-ascorbic acid
• 10% Butylene Glycol
• 4% Glycolic Acid
• 10% Sweet Almond Oil
• 10% Safflower Seed Oil
• 0.5% Tea Tree Oil
• 2% Fragrance Oil
• 1% Light Cream Maker
• 50.5% Water

Feasibility and Resulting Texture

Based on the composition, the 12% L-Ascorbic Acid and 4% Glycolic Acid should be able to dissolve in the combined water and Butylene Glycol phase (total 60.5%). However, with 50.5% water and the use of Light Cream Maker, this formula will result in a lotion or cream, not a true oil-based product, as L-Ascorbic Acid is water-soluble.

Stability of L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid is highly prone to oxidation, especially in water-based formulas. To significantly improve its stability and effectiveness over time, it is strongly recommended to include antioxidants. A well-known combination for stabilizing L-Ascorbic Acid is the addition of Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid.

Recommended Adjusted Formula (Lotion/Cream)

To create a more stable product with the desired actives, consider the following adjusted formula, incorporating Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid:

• 12% L-ascorbic acid
• 10% Butylene Glycol
• 4% Glycolic Acid
• 10% Sweet Almond Oil
• 10% Safflower Seed Oil
• 0.5% Tea Tree Oil
• 2% Fragrance Oil
• 1% Light Cream Maker
• 1% Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
• 0.5% Ferulic Acid
• 48% Water (adjusted)

This formula totals 100%. You will need to ensure the L-Ascorbic Acid and Glycolic Acid are fully dissolved in the water and Butylene Glycol phase before combining with the oil phase using the Light Cream Maker.

pH Adjustment

For optimal efficacy and stability of both L-Ascorbic Acid and Glycolic Acid, the final pH of the product should be adjusted to be between 3.0 and 4.0. You will need a suitable acid (like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid) to lower the pH if necessary.

Alternative for True Oil Base

If your primary goal is a true oil-based product, L-Ascorbic Acid is not suitable as it is water-soluble. You would need to explore using oil-soluble Vitamin C derivatives instead.