L-Ascorbic Acid Stability in Water-Based Formulations and Alternatives

Asked by: sunisa.june On: May 03, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding the use of L-Ascorbic Acid in water-based cosmetic formulations or testers:

Why is L-Ascorbic Acid generally not suitable for simple water-based formulations or testers, and what are the limitations when mixed directly with water?

What are stable derivatives of Vitamin C that are suitable for use in water-based cosmetic formulations, and what benefits do they offer?

Are there ready-made bases available containing stable forms of Vitamin C?

If using pure L-Ascorbic Acid, what types of formulations or conditions are typically required to maintain its potency?

Answer

Regarding L-Ascorbic Acid in Testers

Thank you for your question regarding the availability of L-Ascorbic Acid for testers. As mentioned in the previous reply, L-Ascorbic Acid, which is a pure form of Vitamin C, has a significant limitation: it is highly unstable when mixed directly with water. Oxidation occurs easily, causing the ingredient to degrade and lose its effectiveness quickly.

For this reason, L-Ascorbic Acid is generally not suitable for simple water-based formulations or testers where stability over time is required without complex formulation techniques or anhydrous (water-free) bases.

However, there are several stable derivatives of Vitamin C that are suitable for use in water-based cosmetic formulations. These alternatives offer similar skin benefits, such as brightening, anti-aging, and antioxidant properties, but are much easier to work with and maintain stability in a formula. Some examples include:

  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: A highly stable, water-soluble derivative that provides excellent skin brightening effects.
  • Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G): Another stable, water-soluble form that is easily absorbed by the skin and offers whitening and antioxidant benefits.
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): A stable, water-soluble form often used for its brightening properties.

We also offer ready-made bases containing stable forms of Vitamin C, such as:

  • 16% Vitamin C Brightening Serum
  • Ascorbyl Glucoside 20% Gel

These stable forms and ready-made bases are excellent options if you are looking to create a Vitamin C product that is stable and effective in a water-based format.

If you are interested in using pure L-Ascorbic Acid, it is typically used in anhydrous formulations (without water) or requires specific pH control and stabilizers to maintain its potency.