Light Whitening Body Formula and Vitamin C Serum Mixing

Asked by: hiphop5142 On: September 21, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I'd like to find a formula for Vitamin C or other whitening ingredients for body skin. Could you recommend one that is light on the skin but effective for clearing scars and whitening?

Also, is the mixing method for a Vitamin C serum containing L-Ascorbic Acid, Ferulic Acid, and Vitamin E similar to that used for Skinceuticals C E Ferulic?

Answer

Okay, I can help with that.

Regarding your question about the mixing process for the Vitamin C serum formula you proposed (with L-Ascorbic Acid, Ferulic Acid, and Vitamin E), yes, the recommended approach of dissolving L-Ascorbic Acid in water and adjusting the pH first, then adding other ingredients, is similar to the general method used for stabilizing L-Ascorbic Acid serums, including well-known formulas like Skinceuticals C E Ferulic. This helps ensure the L-Ascorbic Acid is in a stable environment before introducing other potentially interfering ingredients.

For a light and effective whitening formula for body skin, focusing on your goals of clearing scars and increasing whiteness, here is a suggested formula structure using ingredients discussed previously that are known for these benefits and can be formulated into a light texture:

Light Whitening Body Formula (Example)

This formula aims for a light, serum-like or light lotion texture.

  • Water Phase (approx. 70-80%):
    • Distilled Water: q.s. (quantity sufficient to reach 100%)
    • Glycerin or Propanediol: 3-5% (Humectant for hydration, helps dissolve some ingredients)
  • Active Ingredients (approx. 7-11%):
    • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 4-5% (Whitening, improves skin barrier, helps with scar appearance)
    • N-Acetyl Glucosamine: 2-4% (Pairs with Niacinamide for enhanced whitening, helps with PIH/scar appearance)
    • Alpha Arbutin: 1-2% (Whitening)
  • Texture Enhancer/Thickener (approx. 0.5-2%):
    • Sepiplus 400 or Light Cream Maker: 0.5-1.5% (Choose one, adjust percentage for desired thickness. Sepiplus 400 typically creates a gel/light cream)
    • Alternatively, if you prefer a very thin serum and have Pro Polymer, you could try a very low percentage like 0.1-0.5%, but be cautious of stickiness as you experienced before.
  • Preservative (approx. 0.5-1%):
    • Phenoxyethanol: 0.5-1% (Common broad-spectrum preservative)
  • Optional (for enhanced scar care):
    • Rose Hip Oil: 0.5-1% (Can be added at the end if using an emulsifier like Light Cream Maker, or used separately as a spot treatment if using a gel base like Sepiplus 400).

Simple Mixing Procedure (Example using Sepiplus 400 or Light Cream Maker):

  1. Weigh the Water and Glycerin/Propanediol into a beaker.
  2. Add the Niacinamide, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, and Alpha Arbutin to the water phase. Stir or mix until fully dissolved. Gentle warming (if you have a way to do this safely, like a warm water bath, but avoid direct heat) can help dissolution, but it should dissolve at room temperature with mixing.
  3. Slowly add the chosen thickener (Sepiplus 400 or Light Cream Maker) to the mixture while stirring or mixing. Continue mixing until the desired texture is achieved and the base is uniform.
  4. Add the Phenoxyethanol (and Rose Hip Oil if using in the formula). Mix thoroughly.
  5. Check the pH. Most of these ingredients work well in a pH range of 5-7, which is generally skin-compatible. Niacinamide is most stable around pH 5-6. If needed, you can adjust the pH slightly using a dilute acid (like Citric Acid solution) to lower it or a dilute base (like Triethanolamine solution) to raise it, but often, with these ingredients, the pH falls into an acceptable range naturally.

This type of formula should feel relatively light on the skin while providing effective ingredients for whitening and improving the appearance of scars over time. Remember that results take time and consistent use.

Regarding your previous sticky formula with Pro Polymer and high Panthenol: The staff was correct that Panthenol at 5% can contribute to stickiness, especially in simple gel bases. Using a lower percentage of Panthenol (like 2%) and potentially a different thickener or a lower concentration of Pro Polymer, or incorporating a small amount of a slip agent (like a very low percentage of a light silicone if compatible with your thickener), could help reduce stickiness in future formulations. For the 300ml batch you already made, you could try diluting it slightly with more water or a non-sticky base if you make one, but it might affect the concentration of actives.

Let me know if you'd like to refine this body formula or have more questions!