Lightweight AHA Body Lotion/Essence Formulation

Asked by: p_natt50 On: February 24, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am looking for a body lotion or essence formulation containing Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid. I find products like AmLactin too heavy and sticky. I need a formula that is much lighter and absorbs quickly, similar to an essence or serum texture. How can I achieve a lightweight, fast-absorbing texture for a body product with AHAs (Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid)?

Answer

Lightweight AHA Body Lotion/Essence Formulation

Based on your experience with the AmLactin cream feeling too heavy and sticky, you're looking for a body lotion or essence with Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid that has a much lighter, fast-absorbing texture.

The AmLactin cream you described, and the example formulas provided by the staff using Water-in-Oil EZ™, are based on Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsion technology. W/O emulsions tend to be richer and leave a more occlusive feel on the skin, which can be perceived as heavy or sticky, especially in humid climates.

To achieve a lightweight, fast-absorbing texture similar to an essence while incorporating Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid, an Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsion or a gel/serum formulation is generally more suitable. These types of formulations have a higher water content and are designed to absorb quickly.

When formulating with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid, it's crucial to maintain a low pH (typically between 3.5 and 4.0) for them to be effective for exfoliation. This means the ingredients used in the formulation, especially emulsifiers and thickeners, must be stable in acidic conditions.

To create a lightweight, non-sticky body lotion or essence with Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid, you would typically use:

  • Water Base: The primary ingredient for a light texture.
  • AHAs: Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid at desired concentrations.
  • Acid-Stable Thickener/Emulsifier: These are key to creating a stable O/W emulsion or a gel texture at a low pH. Ingredients like Sepimax Zen or CreamMaker Acid™ are examples of materials known for their stability in acidic environments and their ability to create light, non-greasy textures. Xanthan Gum is another acid-stable thickener that can be used to create a gel or increase the viscosity of the water phase.
  • Humectants: Ingredients like Sodium Lactate, Glycerin, and Propylene Glycol help attract and retain moisture in the skin. Sodium Lactate also acts as a buffering agent, helping to stabilize the pH of the formulation.
  • Light Emollients (Optional): Small amounts of fast-absorbing oils or silicones can be added to provide a smooth feel without heaviness. Examples include various LipidSoft grades or light Dimethicones. Unlike the W/O formula, these would be dispersed in the water phase.
  • Preservative: Essential to prevent microbial growth, especially in water-based formulations. A broad-spectrum preservative effective at low pH, such as Phenoxyethanol, would be needed.

By using an O/W system or a gel base with appropriate acid-stable ingredients, you can create a product containing Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid that is significantly lighter and faster-absorbing than a traditional W/O cream. The exact texture (serum, light lotion, gel) will depend on the specific thickener/emulsifier system chosen and the ratio of the water and oil phases.