Lightweight Hair Milk Formulation for Digital Permed Hair (Davines Oi Inspired)

Question

I would like to create a hair milk lotion similar to Davines Oi All In One Milk. I love its scent and lightweight texture that doesn't weigh down the hair, making it perfect for digital permed hair.

Key Requirements:

Application Feel: I prefer a "wet" sensation during application to help set the curls more easily.
Finish: Once dry, the curls should be soft and smooth, without clumping or becoming crunchy like some styling products.
Budget & Long-term Care: I'm looking for a budget-friendly version. Please feel free to remove unnecessary ingredients or add components that provide long-term nourishment for dry hair ends.
Scent: I want a soft, pleasant fragrance similar to the original that lingers on the hair.

Original Ingredients (Davines OI Milk):
Aqua/Water/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Parfum/Fragrance, Behentrimonium Chloride, Benzyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Cetyl Alcohol, Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Amodimethicone/Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Trideceth-5, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Trideceth-12, Cyclopentasiloxane, Citronellol, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil/Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract

Could you please suggest a formula and the preparation steps?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

To create a hair milk similar to Davines OI All In One Milk that is lightweight, helps set digital perm curls, and provides a "soft-not-crunchy" finish, we can focus on the core conditioning agents and silicones that provide that specific texture.

The "wet" feeling you enjoy during application comes from the high water and humectant content, while the smoothness without clumping is primarily due to Amodimethicone, a silicone that selectively bonds to damaged hair without building up.

Recommended Budget-Friendly Hair Milk Formula

Phase A: Water Phase (Heat to 70-75°C)

Water: to 100%
Glycerin: 3.0% (Provides the "wet" feel and hydration)
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): 1.0% (Long-term hair health and moisture)

Phase B: Oil/Emulsifier Phase (Heat to 70-75°C)

Behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS 50%): 3.0% (The primary conditioning agent that makes hair silky and easy to detangle)
Cetyl Alcohol: 1.5% (Provides the "milk" consistency and softness)
Sunflower Oil: 1.0% (A budget-friendly natural oil for shine and nourishment)

Phase C: Cool Down Phase (Add when temperature is below 40°C)

Cyclomethicone: 3.0% (A volatile silicone that makes the product feel light and spread easily)
Amodimethicone: 2.0% (The key for soft, non-clumping curls and heat protection)
Vitamin E (Tocopherol): 0.1% (Antioxidant)
Mild Preservative (e.g., Phenoxyethanol): 1.0%
Fragrance Oil: 1.0 - 2.0% (Choose a "Clean Cotton" or "White Musk" style scent for a similar vibe)

Why this formula works:

BTMS 50%: This is a superior conditioning emulsifier compared to standard ones. It gives a "powdery" soft finish that isn't greasy, perfect for keeping curls bouncy.
Amodimethicone: This is the "magic" ingredient for permed hair. It helps define curls and prevents them from sticking together (clumping) as they dry.
Glycerin: At 3%, it gives you enough "play time" to set your curls while the hair is damp.
Long-term Care: Panthenol and Sunflower Oil work together to repair the hair shaft over time.

Instructions:

In separate containers, heat Phase A and Phase B to approximately 70-75°C.
Slowly pour Phase B into Phase A while stirring continuously (or using a hand blender) until a smooth, milky emulsion forms.
Continue stirring gently as the mixture cools down.
Once the temperature drops below 40°C, add the Phase C ingredients one by one, stirring well after each addition.
Adjust the pH to around 4.5 - 5.5 using a small amount of Citric Acid if necessary (hair products prefer a slightly acidic pH).

Tip for Fragrance: To make the scent last longer, apply the milk to damp hair and avoid blow-drying on high heat immediately, as heat can dissipate the fragrance notes. Using a fragrance fixative or a higher concentration (up to 2%) of a high-quality fragrance oil will also help.