Lightweight, Non-Clogging Facial Cream with Physical Sunscreen for Dry Skin

Question

I am looking for a lightweight, non-greasy, and non-clogging facial cream with physical sunscreen and nourishing ingredients for my dry skin. I need a formula that is comfortable for daily use.

I have tried several sunscreens, but haven't found one that I like and can use continuously:

Spectraban Orange: A small amount leaves a white cast and feels greasy and sticky.
Spectraban SC Green Silicone: I like this one, but my face looks dull during the day.
Shiseido Wetforce: I really like the texture of this one, but it caused clogged pores after just two days (this one does not leave a white cast).

I would appreciate a formula that is easy to mix and has a texture and feel similar to Atopalm Intensive Moisturizing Cream or Shiseido Wetforce (but must not clog pores). The formula should use available ingredients and cater to the dry skin condition mentioned.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Simple Facial Cream with Physical Sunscreen

Here is a simple formulation for a non-greasy, non-clogging, and comfortable facial cream with physical sunscreen and nourishing ingredients, suitable for dry skin, based on your available ingredients.

This formula aims for a light texture while providing hydration and moderate sun protection for your described daily exposure.

Regarding your understanding of chemical sunscreens needing 30 minutes before sun exposure: Physical sunscreens like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide provide immediate protection upon application as they work by reflecting and scattering UV rays. Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays and convert them to heat, and while some may benefit from a short period to form a uniform film, it's not always a strict 30 minutes and depends on the specific filter and formula. Your choice of physical sunscreen is valid for immediate protection.

Formula:

Ingredient	Percentage (%)	Function
Water	64%	Base
Glycerin (Vegetable)	3%	Humectant
Ectoine	1%	Nourishing, Hydrating, Skin Protection
Safe-B3 (Niacinamide)	3%	Nourishing, Barrier Support, Anti-inflammatory
GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine)	1%	Nourishing, Hydrating, Skin Tone Evening
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)	1%	Nourishing, Hydrating, Soothing
Light Cream Maker	3%	Emulsifier/Thickener
Squalane (Olive)	3%	Light Emollient
Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid	6%	Physical Sunscreen (UVA/UVB)
Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid	6%	Physical Sunscreen (UVA/UVB)
Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear)	8%	Texture Enhancer, Slip, Non-greasy Feel
Phenoxyethanol SA	1%	Preservative
Total	100%

Simple Mixing Procedure:

Weigh Water into a clean beaker.
Add Glycerin, Ectoine, Safe-B3, GlucoBright, and Panthenol to the water. Stir or use a mini-mixer until all ingredients are dissolved (Water Phase).
Add Light Cream Maker to the water phase and mix briefly.
Add Squalane (Olive) to the mixture. Use a mini-mixer (like a hand mixer or small homogenizer) to mix thoroughly until a smooth, uniform emulsion is formed.
Add Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid and Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid. Mix very well (using a mixer is highly recommended) to ensure the sunscreen particles are evenly dispersed throughout the cream. This step is crucial for sunscreen effectiveness.
Add Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear) and mix until fully incorporated and the texture is smooth and uniform.
Finally, add Phenoxyethanol SA and mix briefly.
(Optional but Recommended) Check the pH of the cream. It should ideally be between 5.5 - 6.5, which is suitable for facial skin. Adjust if necessary using a small amount of Citric Acid (to lower pH) or Triethanolamine (to raise pH).

Additional Notes:

This formula is designed to be light and comfortable. The inclusion of Silicone Gel helps significantly with slip and reducing greasiness.
The total percentage of physical sunscreen dispersions (~12%) is expected to provide moderate SPF protection, suitable for your described daily exposure. Reapplication is recommended for prolonged sun exposure.
Thorough mixing of the physical sunscreens (Step 5) is essential for optimal UV protection.
You can slightly adjust the percentages of Squalane or Silicone Gel to fine-tune the texture to your preference. Increasing Squalane can add a bit more richness for dry skin (staying below 5-10% to avoid greasiness), while increasing Silicone Gel can enhance the smooth, non-greasy feel.
Always test the finished product on a small area of skin before applying to the entire face.

This formula should provide a good starting point for a nourishing, light-textured sunscreen cream that meets your needs. Good luck!