Lightweight Serum Formulation Advice

Here is some advice regarding your proposed lightweight serum formulation targeting lifting, wrinkle reduction, and whitening:

Ingredient Redundancy

Your list includes several ingredients that target wrinkle reduction and lifting, such as Cell Energy (Adenosine), Japanese Cedar, Mineral Ready, Wrinkle-Lax, Repair Activator, Pep-Coll, RETINAT, Marine Plankton, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, and Quick-Coll. While some overlap can provide synergistic benefits, using all of them might lead to redundancy and increase the complexity and cost of your formulation without significantly enhancing the results. For whitening, Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3), Gluco Bright (Acetyl Glucosamine), and MSH White work through different mechanisms and can be used together effectively. Consider focusing on a select few key actives for each desired effect based on their specific mechanisms and recommended usage rates.

Mixing Method (Hand Stir vs. Blender)

While many water-soluble ingredients like Safe-B3, Gluco Bright, Panthenol B5, Wrinkle-Lax, Ectoin, Mineral Ready, L-Carnitine, Pep-Coll, RETINAT, Marine Plankton, Quick-Coll, Japanese Cedar, and Methylsilanol Mannuronate can dissolve in water with hand stirring, some powders might require thorough mixing to avoid clumps. Beta Glucan disperses but doesn't dissolve clearly and can precipitate if the formula isn't viscous enough. Pure-Adenosine™ also disperses rather than fully dissolving in water. MSH White requires heat to dissolve in the oil phase. Creating a stable emulsion with 25% oil using hand stirring can be challenging. While CreamMaker EG™ is designed for cold process and easier emulsification, a high-shear mixer or blender is generally recommended for achieving a smooth and stable serum emulsion, especially with a significant oil phase.

Difficult Solubility

• Pure-Adenosine™ (Cell Energy): This ingredient disperses in cream/gel and has low water solubility (maximum 0.5%). It does not dissolve well in water.
• Beta Glucan: Disperses in water but does not dissolve clearly and can precipitate if the formula lacks sufficient viscosity.
• MSH White: Requires heating to at least 60°C (recommended 80°C) to dissolve completely in the oil phase or alcohol.
• L-Carnitine: While water-soluble, it is very hygroscopic and must be kept tightly sealed to avoid moisture absorption.

Panthenol B5 Percentage

For skin care, a usage rate of 1-3% for Panthenol (Vitamin B5) is generally recommended to provide benefits without causing stickiness. Using it above 5% can make the product feel gooey.

Thickener and Emulsifier for Lightweight Serum (Cold Process, Hand Stir)

For a lightweight serum that can be made with a cold process and hand stirring, CreamMaker EG™ (Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80) is a suitable option. It acts as both a thickener and an emulsifier, is designed for cold process formulations, and can help create a light texture. Sepimax Zen (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) is another cold-process thickener for the water phase, but you would still need a separate emulsifier to incorporate the oil phase.

LipidSoft Lite vs. Dry

For a lightweight, non-greasy serum texture, LipidSoft Lite (Isononyl Nonanoate) is the more appropriate choice. It is described as having a very light, non-oily feel and is suitable for lightweight formulations, serving as a good replacement for silicones. LipidSoft Dry provides dryness but is noted as being less soft and smooth compared to other types.

MSH White + LipidSoft + Water Precipitation

Yes, mixing the oil phase containing MSH White dissolved with heat in LipidSoft into the water phase can potentially cause precipitation or instability if not done correctly. MSH White requires heat to dissolve in oil. When combining a heated oil phase with a cooler water phase, proper emulsification technique (slow addition of the oil phase to the water phase while continuously stirring) and a suitable emulsifier like CreamMaker EG™ are crucial to ensure stability and prevent separation or precipitation.

Japanese Cedar, L-Carnitine, and FruitPeel Comparison

These three ingredients offer different primary benefits, although some overlap in anti-aging effects:

• Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract): Focuses on enhancing skin cell renewal in the epidermis, strengthening the skin barrier, increasing hydration, and improving overall skin structure. It dissolves in water, but avoid heat above 60°C.
• L-Carnitine: Accelerates skin cell turnover, helps control oiliness (sebum production), provides moisture, and can help with skin firming and reducing the appearance of cellulite. It dissolves in water but is very hygroscopic and requires a pH below 8 (optimally 4-7).
• FruitPeel™: Acts as a gentle exfoliant promoting healthy cell turnover. It also shows benefits in reducing wrinkles, improving firmness, lightening dark spots, and enhancing skin softness and hydration. It dissolves in water, but avoid heat above 40°C.

They have different solubility and temperature sensitivities. Japanese Cedar and FruitPeel are liquids that dissolve easily in water (with temperature limits), while L-Carnitine is a hygroscopic powder that dissolves in water.

Ingredients with High Stickiness

The ingredient most likely to contribute to a sticky or gooey feel at higher concentrations is Panthenol B5, particularly above 5%. Some thickeners or gelling agents, if used at high levels or if the wrong type is selected for a lightweight serum, could also contribute to a heavier or slightly sticky feel.

Ingredients Requiring Heat for Dissolution

MSH White requires heating to at least 60°C (recommended 80°C) to dissolve completely in the oil phase or alcohol.

Mixing Steps for Beginners (Cold Process Serum)

Here is a simplified process for creating your serum using a cold process method suitable for hand stirring, assuming you use CreamMaker EG™ as your emulsifier/thickener:

1. Prepare the Water Phase: Measure your distilled water (50%). Add water-soluble ingredients like Safe-B3, Gluco Bright, Ectoin, Mineral Ready, L-Carnitine, Beta Glucan, Japanese Cedar, FruitPeel, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Panthenol B5, Repair Activator, Pep-Coll, RETINAT, and Quick-Coll to the distilled water. Stir thoroughly until dissolved or dispersed. Note the temperature restrictions for Japanese Cedar (avoid >60°C) and FruitPeel (avoid >40°C). Ensure the water phase is at room temperature or below 40°C before adding heat-sensitive actives.
2. Prepare the Oil Phase: Measure your Olive Oil (10%), Rose Hip Oil (5%), and LipidSoft Lite (5%). Add MSH White (2%) to the oil phase. Gently heat this oil mixture to around 80°C while stirring until the MSH White is completely dissolved. Remove from heat and let it cool down to below 40°C.
3. Combine Phases: Add the recommended amount of CreamMaker EG™ to either the cooled oil phase or the water phase (check the supplier's specific instructions for CreamMaker EG™). Slowly pour the phase without CreamMaker EG™ into the phase containing CreamMaker EG™ while stirring continuously and vigorously by hand. Continue stirring until a uniform emulsion (serum) is formed.
4. Add Remaining Ingredients: Once the emulsion is formed and cooled below 40°C, add any remaining heat-sensitive ingredients that were not added in step 1 (e.g., Pep-Coll, RETINAT, Quick-Coll, Marine Plankton, Natural Bisabolol, Tea Tree Oil, DMI, Mild Preserved Eco). Add them one by one, ensuring each is fully incorporated before adding the next.
5. Adjust pH: Check the pH of the final serum and adjust it to the optimal range for your ingredients (generally between 4.0-7.0 for most skin actives and emulsifiers) using a suitable pH adjuster if necessary.
6. Add Preservative: Add Mild Preserved Eco (1%) and stir to combine.
7. Final Mix: Stir gently to ensure everything is well mixed.

Remember that achieving a perfectly stable and smooth emulsion with hand stirring can be difficult, especially with a higher oil percentage. A blender is recommended for better results. Always perform a small test batch first.