Lip Balm Formulation and Adding Water-Soluble Actives (like MOIST72)

Asked by: pharetanda On: July 17, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to formulate a lip balm.

  • How can I incorporate MOIST72 into the formula?
  • Should I include Lanolin?
  • What types of color and flavor, such as cinnamon, are suitable?
  • Is a preservative necessary?

Answer

Lip Balm Formulation (50g)

Based on the ingredients you have and the previous discussion, here is a formula for a moisturizing oil-based lip balm (50g batch):

  • Natural White Beeswax: 9 g (18%)
  • Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): 5 g (10%)
  • Cocoa Butter (Deodorized): 5 g (10%)
  • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 0.5 g (1%)
  • Ethyl Vanillin: 0.05 g (0.1%) - Note: You can replace this with another lip-safe flavor.
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: 30.45 g (60.9%)

  • Note: Lanolin Natural is not included in this formula as the staff mentioned it might have a slight sheep smell that could be undesirable.*

Instructions:

  1. Weigh all ingredients accurately.
  2. Combine the Beeswax, Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, and Fractionated Coconut Oil in a heat-resistant container.
  3. Gently heat the mixture using a double boiler or low heat (around 80°C) until all the solid ingredients are completely melted and the mixture is clear. Avoid overheating.
  4. Remove from heat.
  5. Add the Vitamin E and Ethyl Vanillin (or your chosen flavor). Stir well to ensure they are evenly distributed.
  6. Carefully pour the liquid mixture into your lip balm containers.
  7. Let the lip balms cool completely at room temperature until solid before capping.

Adding MOIST72 for Extra Moisturization

You asked about adding MOIST72 for more intense moisturization. MOIST72 is a water-soluble ingredient. To incorporate a water-soluble ingredient into an oil-based product like this lip balm, you would need a specific type of emulsifier called a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier.

Based on the staff's response, a suitable W/O emulsifier for lip products is not currently available in the shop but is planned for future release. Therefore, at this time, you cannot create a stable water-in-oil lip balm using the ingredients and emulsifiers available from this shop. The formula provided above is an anhydrous (oil-only) balm.

Color and Flavor

For a subtle red tint, you can add a small amount of ReadyMix™ Iron Oxides Red (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate Based) to the melted oil mixture in step 5. Start with a very small amount (e.g., a tiny drop or a pinch) and add more gradually until you achieve your desired shade of red. This pigment is dispersed in oil, making it suitable for your balm.

Regarding flavor, you mentioned wanting to replace Ethyl Vanillin and asked about cinnamon. A specific cinnamon flavor wasn't found in the available lip flavors. However, you can replace the Ethyl Vanillin with any other lip-safe flavor available from the shop. Some options include Sweet Vanilla, Pineapple Kiss, Sugar Honey, or Honey Mint. Add the flavor at the recommended usage rate (usually very low, like 0.1-1%).

Preservative

For an anhydrous (oil-based) product like this lip balm, a preservative is generally not required because there is no water present for microbial growth. The Vitamin E included in the formula acts as an antioxidant, helping to prevent the oils from going rancid. If you were able to make a water-in-oil balm by adding MOIST72 and water, then a preservative would be necessary.