Lip Balm Stick Formulation: Texture, Mica Settling, and Water Balm Usage

Question

Lip Balm Stick Formulation Challenges

I am seeking advice regarding a lip balm stick formulation. My current formula results in a very hard texture that does not adhere well to the lips and is excessively shiny. I want the lip balm to be firm enough for a stick format but have a soft, adherent texture on the lips without being too shiny or sticky.

My current formula is:

Beeswax 25%
Carnauba Wax 15%
Natural Oil 40%
Water Balm 7%
Double Hyaluronic Acid 5%
Water 2%
1,2-Hexanediol (Preservative) 3%
Fragrance (Oil) 3%
How should I modify the formula to achieve a softer, smoother texture that adheres better to the lips, feels like it's coating the lips without being sticky, and is less shiny?
I want to add Pearl Blue Mica (Size A) and Pearl Purple Mica (Size D) to the lip balm, but they settle at the bottom after the lip balm solidifies. How can I prevent the mica from settling and ensure it is evenly dispersed throughout the stick after cooling?
The maximum usage rate for Water Balm is stated as 7%. What is the maximum total percentage of water and water-soluble ingredients that can be incorporated into the formula when using 7% Water Balm?
If I add powdered water-soluble ingredients that are dissolved in the water phase (which is then emulsified by Water Balm), do these powdered ingredients count towards the total water/water-soluble percentage limit, or only the liquid water-soluble ingredients?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Improving Lip Balm Texture and Adherence

Your current formula is likely too hard and not adhering well due to the high percentage of waxes, especially Carnauba Wax, which is very hard. To make the lip balm softer, more adherent, and less waxy/shiny, consider the following adjustments:

Reduce Hard Waxes: Significantly decrease the amount of Carnauba Wax (currently 15%). You might also slightly reduce the Beeswax percentage.
Introduce Softer Waxes or Emollients: Replace some of the reduced hard waxes with a softer wax like Tribehenin or an emollient like LipidSoft Lube.
- Tribehenin is a soft, non-crystalline wax that can improve texture, add shine, and increase product payoff (how much product transfers to the skin).
- LipidSoft Lube is a light emollient that provides lubrication without a heavy, coated feel, which can improve the glide and adherence of the lip balm.
Adjust Oil Phase: Increase the percentage of your natural oil to compensate for the reduction in waxes.

For example, you could try reducing Carnauba Wax to 5-10% and Beeswax to 20%, then adding 5-10% Tribehenin or LipidSoft Lube, and increasing the natural oil accordingly. Experiment with percentages to find the texture you prefer.

Preventing Mica Settling

To prevent the mica particles from settling at the bottom of the stick, you need to incorporate an anti-settling agent into the oil phase.

Add an additive like BYK 410 or Oil-Fix O to your heated oil phase before adding the mica. These agents help to keep solid particles dispersed evenly throughout the formula as it cools and solidifies. Follow the recommended usage rate for the specific additive you choose (typically 0.5-4%).

Water Balm Usage and Water Limit

You are using 7% Water Balm, which is designed to bind a water phase within an oil/wax base.

With 7% Water Balm, the maximum percentage of the total water/water-soluble phase in your formula should not exceed 10%.
Your current formula contains 2% Water + 5% Double Hyaluron Liquid (which is a water-based solution) + 3% 1,2-Hexanediol (a water-soluble preservative). These water-soluble components sum up to 10% (2 + 5 + 3 = 10%).
Therefore, your current formula is at the maximum limit for the water/water-soluble phase when using 7% Water Balm. If you wish to add more water or water-soluble ingredients, you would likely need to increase the percentage of Water Balm or consider a different type of emulsifier/base that can handle a higher water load.

Powdered Water-Soluble Ingredients

Yes, powdered water-soluble ingredients, once dissolved in the water phase of your formula, do count towards the total percentage of the water/water-soluble phase that the Water Balm is binding. The Water Balm binds the entire water phase, regardless of whether the dissolved components were originally liquid or powder.