Lip Scrub Formulation: Thickening and Adding Whitening Agents

Guidance for Lip Scrub Formula

Regarding the Lip Scrub formula you inquired about, it's a good starting point. However, as advised by cosmeceutical7, the formula is missing a key ingredient to provide stability and prevent it from being too liquid – a gelling agent or wax.

Ingredients and Formula Adjustments

• Caster Sugar: You can use finely ground white sugar. It's readily available in supermarkets.
• Organic Jojoba Oil: This is a good oil for the lips.
• Alpha Isomethyl Ionone: As cosmeceutical7 mentioned, this is a fragrance ingredient, providing a rose-like scent. If you wish to use it, you can use cosmetic-grade fragrance ingredients. Using food-grade flavors is also an option and might be preferred by some for lip products due to potential ingestion.
• Coloring: For formulas that are primarily oil-based or contain a significant oil phase, the colorant used should be oil-soluble or a pigment that can disperse well in oil. Water-soluble colors are generally not compatible with oil bases directly. However, if using Sugar Gel, which can incorporate a small amount of water into an oil formula, you might be able to use water-soluble colors in the water portion.
• Fragrance: Cosmetic-grade fragrances are suitable. Food-grade flavors are also an option for lip products, especially considering potential ingestion.

Adding Extracts for Lip Whitening

If you want to add extracts to help lighten the lips, such as Mulberry or Licorice extract, you can do so. However, you need to consider the solubility of the extract (water or oil) to ensure it is compatible with the oil-based Lip Scrub formula.

• Licorice Extract: Available in both water-soluble and oil-soluble forms. Key compounds like Glabridin and Licochalcone A have anti-inflammatory and skin tone evening properties. If your formula includes a small water phase, you can use a water-soluble type. For purely oil-based formulas, choose an oil-soluble type.
• Mulberry Extract: Generally, mulberry extract is water-soluble. To include it in an oil-based Lip Scrub, you might need a special oil-compatible version or use it in a formula that can incorporate a small water phase (e.g., using Sugar Gel as a gellant).

In addition to natural extracts, there are synthetic whitening agents that are compatible with oil bases, as suggested by cosmeceutical7:

• MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine): This ingredient helps reduce pigment formation and works well in oil bases. The recommended usage rate is 0.5-2%.
• Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol): A highly effective skin lightening agent that is oil-soluble. The usage rate for leave-on products should not exceed 1%.

Creating the Lip Scrub Texture

To give the formula stability and a usable texture, you should add an oil gelling agent or wax. Sugar Gel is a good option as it creates an oil gel texture and can incorporate a small amount of water, allowing for the addition of some water-soluble beneficial ingredients. The recommended usage rate for Sugar Gel is typically 2-10%, depending on the desired consistency.

Usage Rate for Actives

Following the excellent advice from cosmeceutical7, for products applied to the lips, where the skin is delicate, the concentration of active ingredients should be reduced compared to use on the face or body. For example, if using Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) at 5% on the face, you might reduce it to 2-2.5% for lips. Other whitening agents like MSH White or Activated Resorcinol should also be considered at lower concentrations, and patch testing is recommended before full application.

Summary of Suggested Formula Adjustments

A Lip Scrub formula should ideally include:

1. Exfoliant: Caster Sugar
2. Oil Base: Organic Jojoba Oil and/or other suitable oils.
3. Gelling Agent/Wax: Such as Sugar Gel to provide texture and stability.
4. Beneficial Actives (Optional): Such as oil-soluble Licorice extract, MSH White, or Activated Resorcinol in appropriate concentrations for lip use.
5. Colorant (Optional): Oil-soluble color or pigment.
6. Fragrance (Optional): Cosmetic fragrance or food-grade flavor.

Adjusting the ratios of sugar, oil base, and gelling agent will help you achieve the desired Lip Scrub texture.