Lipstick Formulation Issue: Hard Particles from Wax
Question
I want to make a lipstick stick. The main component is Fractionated Coconut Oil, and I use Essential Oil for scent. My formula is:
- Fractionated Coconut Oil 80%
- Essential Oil 2%
- Flora Solve™ Clear 3 parts per 1 part Essential Oil
- Microcrystalline Wax 20%
The result is a lipstick stick, but it's not as hard as desired, although it is still a stick. When applied, there are small, hard particles in the lipstick.
How can I prevent these hard particles?
Answer
How to Prevent Hard Particles in Your Lipstick
The small, hard particles you are experiencing in your lipstick formula are likely due to the Microcrystalline Wax not being fully melted or cooling down too quickly and unevenly. Waxes need to be heated sufficiently to melt completely and then cooled properly to solidify into a smooth, uniform structure.
Here’s how to adjust your process to prevent these particles:
Melt the Wax and Oil Properly:
- Combine the Microcrystalline Wax and Fractionated Coconut Oil in a heat-resistant container.
- Heat the mixture gently, preferably using a double boiler method, to ensure even heating and prevent scorching. Heat until the Microcrystalline Wax is completely melted and the mixture is clear. Microcrystalline Wax typically melts between 76-84°C, so ensure your mixture reaches a temperature above this range to guarantee full dissolution.
- Stir the mixture gently while heating to help the wax dissolve evenly.
Add Essential Oil and Flora Solve™ Clear:
- Remove the wax and oil mixture from the heat and let it cool slightly, but ensure it remains liquid.
- In a separate small container, pre-mix your Essential Oil with Flora Solve™ Clear. According to the description, Flora Solve™ Clear is used at a ratio of 2-5 parts per 1 part of essential oil, depending on the specific essential oil. Ensure these are well combined.
- Add the pre-mixed Essential Oil and Flora Solve™ Clear blend to the slightly cooled wax and oil mixture. Stir gently until everything is uniformly combined. Avoid adding essential oils at very high temperatures, as this can degrade their fragrance.
Cooling Process:
- Pour the liquid lipstick mixture into your lipstick mold while it is still warm and fully liquid.
- Allow the lipstick to cool and solidify slowly and evenly at room temperature. Avoid placing the mold in a refrigerator or freezer immediately. Rapid cooling can cause the wax to crystallize improperly, leading to the formation of those small, hard particles.
By ensuring the wax is fully melted and allowing the mixture to cool slowly and evenly, you should achieve a smooth, particle-free lipstick texture.
Microcrystalline Wax is excellent for providing structure and a smooth texture in lip products. Fractionated Coconut Oil serves as your primary oil base, and Flora Solve™ Clear helps to effectively incorporate the essential oil into the oil phase.
Related Products Mentioned