Lipstick Wear and Air Bubbles: Comparing Film Formers

Asked by: dew_facelove On: September 01, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am currently using Silicone Film (Long-Wear, Hard, Isododecane Base) in my lipstick formulation, but it doesn't last long and disappears after eating. I am considering switching to VP/Hexadecene Copolymer. Can you compare these two film formers regarding wear time and texture? Can they be used together? Will switching require adjusting my formula? Also, when pouring the lipstick into molds, some sticks have small air bubbles/holes. What causes this?

Answer

Understanding Film Formers in Lipstick

You're asking about improving the wear of your lipstick and troubleshooting air bubbles. Let's look at the film formers you mentioned and the issue with bubbles.

Comparing Silicone Film and VP/Hexadecene Copolymer

You are currently using Silicone Film (Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Isododecane), which is designed to provide long wear and transfer resistance by forming a hard film. You are considering switching to VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (similar to VP/Eicosene Copolymer), which is also a film former used for waterproofing and improving stick integrity, creating a solid film.

  • Wear and Texture: While both are film formers, they function differently. Trimethylsiloxysilicate typically forms a more rigid, long-wearing film, which might feel harder on the lips. VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (or VP/Eicosene Copolymer) can offer different film properties, potentially a softer feel, but its wear time compared to a high-percentage Trimethylsiloxysilicate film would need to be tested in your specific formula. If you find your current silicone film isn't lasting, it might be related to the percentage used in your formula or other ingredients affecting the film formation.
  • Can they be used together? It is possible to combine different film formers to achieve specific properties, but this requires careful formulation and testing to ensure compatibility and desired performance. They have different solubilities (Silicone Film in Isododecane/silicones, VP/Eicosene Copolymer in oil) which affects how they are incorporated.
  • Formula Adjustment: Yes, switching film formers or combining them will require adjusting your formula. The percentage used, the solvent/oil phase, and other ingredients will need to be re-evaluated to ensure the film former dissolves correctly, forms a continuous film, and provides the desired texture and wear without negatively impacting stability or feel.

If you are finding the Silicone Film is not lasting, first consider increasing its percentage within the recommended range (up to 30% for Silicone Film, Isododecane Base). If you still desire to try VP/Hexadecene Copolymer or a blend, you will need to reformulate and test.

Air Bubbles in Lipstick

Small air bubbles or holes in poured lipsticks are a common issue often caused by trapped air during the manufacturing process. Possible reasons include:

  • Mixing: Air can be incorporated during the mixing phase, especially if mixing is too vigorous or creates a vortex.
  • Pouring Temperature: Pouring the melted lipstick at too low a temperature can trap air as the mixture solidifies too quickly.
  • Cooling: Rapid cooling can also trap air bubbles before they have a chance to escape.
  • Formula Viscosity: A very viscous formula can make it harder for air bubbles to rise and escape.

To help diagnose the cause of the air bubbles in your specific case, please provide your full formula and detailed mixing and pouring steps, as requested by the staff. This information is crucial for identifying potential points where air is being introduced or trapped.