Liquid Matte Lip Stain Formulation

Based on your interest in creating a liquid matte lip stain similar to Lime Crime Velvetines and the challenges you encountered with pigment settling, the key ingredient to incorporate is a pigment suspending agent like Hectorite Gel™.

Your experimental formula provided a good base, and adding Hectorite Gel™ will help keep the pigments evenly dispersed, preventing the grainy texture and settling you observed.

Recommended Ingredients and Roles

Here is a suggested formula incorporating Hectorite Gel™, based on your trial:

• Hectorite Gel™ (Cyclomethicone Base): 5-10% (Acts as a suspending agent to prevent pigment settling and creates the gel texture)
• Isododecane: 20-25% (Volatile solvent, provides lightweight feel and helps with matte finish)
• Cyclomethicone: 15-20% (Lightweight silicone, adds slip and smooth feel, evaporates)
• Dimethicone: 10-15% (Silicone oil, enhances smooth feel and wear)
• Kaolin: 10-15% (Clay, absorbs oil, contributes to matte finish and opacity)
• Matte Silica: 10-15% (Silica powder, absorbs oil, provides matte finish and smooth feel)
• Squalene: 5-10% (Emollient, adds slip and comfort)

• Lake pigments: As needed for color (Ensure they are suitable for oil/silicone dispersion)

• Adjust percentages within the suggested ranges to achieve your desired texture and feel, ensuring the total adds up to 100%. Start with Hectorite Gel™ at around 8% and adjust other ingredients proportionally.*

Formulation Tips

1. Disperse Pigments: Ensure your Lake pigments are well dispersed in a portion of the liquid/oil phase (like Isododecane or Dimethicone) before combining with the rest of the ingredients. Using a high-shear mixer or grinding the pigments beforehand can help.
2. Incorporate Hectorite Gel™: Mix the Hectorite Gel™ into the silicone/oil phase (Isododecane, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Squalene) and mix thoroughly until a gel texture forms. This is the phase that will suspend your pigments.
3. Combine Phases: Slowly add the dispersed pigment phase to the gel phase while mixing. Continue mixing until everything is uniformly combined and smooth.

Shelf Life

As previously mentioned, formulations primarily composed of synthetic ingredients like silicones, synthetic oils, Hectorite Gel™, and synthetic pigments tend to have a long shelf life, potentially several years, provided they are stored correctly away from sunlight and heat.

Using Hectorite Gel™ should significantly improve the stability of your liquid matte lip stain, giving you the smooth, even application you are looking for.