Liquid Sleeping Mask Formula Advice

It's wonderful that you're exploring making your own sleeping mask! Your goal of a liquid mask focused on brightening and moisturizing is achievable, but as you've noticed, the initial percentages are quite high for a liquid formula.

Using a high percentage of active ingredients doesn't always lead to better results and can cause issues with the product's texture, stability, and potential for skin irritation. For a liquid mask, the majority of the formula will be the base (mostly water).

Let's look at your ingredients and how they can be best used in a liquid format:

• High Total Percentage: Your initial 33% active ingredients is very concentrated for a liquid. This can cause solubility problems, stickiness, and instability.
• Allantoin (4%): Allantoin has limited water solubility (around 0.5% at room temperature). Using 4% will likely result in undissolved powder.
• Hyaluronic Acid (2%): Hyaluronic Acid is a powerful hydrator and thickener. At 2%, it will create a thick gel, not a liquid.
• AHA (5%): While great for brightening and exfoliation, 5% AHA in a leave-on product can be irritating, especially if the pH is low.
• Jojoba (4%): If this refers to Jojoba Oil, it's oil-soluble and won't mix into a water-based liquid without an emulsifier. A water-soluble Jojoba Ester is suitable for liquids.
• Vitamin C (4%): The best type depends on your desired pH and stability. L-Ascorbic Acid needs low pH (<3.5) and is unstable. Stable, water-soluble derivatives like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or SAP are easier to use in liquids.

Recommendations for a Revised Liquid Sleeping Mask Formula:

To create an effective and stable liquid mask, adjust concentrations and ingredient forms. Aim for a total active ingredient percentage that allows for a pleasant liquid texture (likely 15-25% actives + base).

Here is a conceptual example formula, focusing on your goals:

• Phase Water (approx. 65-75%)

  • Water: q.s. to 100%
  • Glycerin: 5% (Humectant, helps dissolve)
  • Propanediol: 5% (Humectant, solvent)
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.1% (Stabilizer)
  • Mild Preserved™ COS: 1% (Preservative)

• Phase Active (approx. 15-25%)

  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: 3% (Brightening Vitamin C)
  • Licorice Extract (Water-Soluble): 1-2% (Brightening, soothing)
  • Lactic Acid Neutralized: 1-2% (Gentle exfoliation, hydration, aids brightening)
  • Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate): 0.05% (Deep hydration)
  • Snail Secretion Filtrate: 4% (Moisturizing, soothing)
  • Allantoin: 0.4% (Soothing, within solubility limit)
  • Jojoba Ester (Water-Soluble): 1% (Light feel)

• Phase Adjust pH

  • Citric Acid / Sodium Hydroxide: Adjust pH to 4.5-5.5

Why these changes?

• Balanced Percentages: The total active percentage is reduced to be suitable for a liquid, ensuring solubility and stability.
• Water-Soluble Forms: Ingredients like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, water-soluble Licorice Extract, Super-HYA™, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Allantoin (at a soluble level), and water-soluble Jojoba Ester are chosen for compatibility with a liquid base.
• Gentle AHA: Lactic Acid Neutralized provides exfoliation and hydration more gently than unbuffered AHAs, suitable for a leave-on mask.
• Effective Hydration: Super-HYA™ is potent at a very low concentration, providing hydration without excessive thickening. Snail Secretion and Allantoin add further moisturizing and soothing benefits.
• Essential Base: Glycerin and Propanediol are included as key humectants and solvents. A preservative is vital for safety in water-based products. pH adjustment is necessary for ingredient efficacy and skin health.

This revised formula provides a good balance of brightening and moisturizing ingredients in a liquid format. Always test the pH and stability of your final product.