Lotion Formula Adjustment: Chelating Agent, Preservative, and Ingredient Levels

Question

I'm trying to adjust a lotion formula using herbal ingredients.

The formula is as follows:

Natural Oil 6%
Natural Extract (Powder type) 0.5%
Pro Polymer (Gel Maker) 5%
DI Water 80%
Vitamin B3 1.5%
Glycerin 5%
Disodium EDTA 0.1%
DMDM Hydantoin 0.6%
Essential Oil (Fragrance) 1.3%

I want to replace Disodium EDTA and DMDM Hydantoin with other ingredients. Which alternatives should I use?
Are there any other parts of the formula above that need adjustment?

Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello! Regarding your question about adjusting your lotion formula, here are some recommendations:

Replacing Disodium EDTA and DMDM Hydantoin:
- Disodium EDTA: This is a chelating agent that helps bind metal ions in water to prevent formula degradation. You can use Sodium Phytate or Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate as alternatives.
- DMDM Hydantoin: This is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative. You can replace it with other types of preservatives such as Phenoxyethanol or a blend like Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin, which is popular and offers broad-spectrum coverage. The required amount will depend on the specific preservative chosen and the supplier's recommendation.
Other adjustments in the formula:
- Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer) 5%: A concentration of 5% is very high for this type of gel maker/thickener. Typically, it is used at much lower concentrations, such as 0.5% - 1%, or a maximum of around 2-3% to achieve a suitable gel or lotion texture. Using 5% might result in a product that is too thick to use or becomes a very hard gel. It is recommended to reduce the amount of Pro Polymer based on the desired viscosity, following the usage guidelines for the specific product.
- Essential Oil 1.3%: A concentration of 1.3% is considered quite high for fragrancing with Essential Oil, which could potentially cause skin irritation. Generally, Essential Oils for topical use are used at much lower concentrations, such as 0.1% - 0.5%, or a maximum of 1%, depending on the specific Essential Oil. It is recommended to reduce the amount of Essential Oil for skin safety.

In summary, you should replace the chelating agent and preservative as desired, and significantly reduce the amounts of Pro Polymer and Essential Oil. Additionally, the mixing procedure is important to ensure ingredients are well incorporated and the product is stable.

Hope this information is helpful! Feel free to ask if you have more questions.