Formula Review and Suggestions

Thank you for providing your formula and mixing steps. Let's review why your lotion might feel dry on the skin.

Based on the product description for Satin Cream Maker (Product ID 247), this emulsifier can handle an oil phase (including oils, butters, and certain other oil-soluble or dispersible ingredients like fragrance and DMI) of up to 25% of the total formula.

Let's calculate the total percentage of these components in your formula:

• Oil butter + Oil + Vit E: 15% + 7.5% + 0.5% = 23%
• Fragrance: 1%
• Flora Fix: 1%
• DMI: 3%

Total = 23% + 1% + 1% + 3% = 28.5%

Your total percentage of ingredients that the Satin Cream Maker needs to emulsify is 28.5%, which exceeds the recommended maximum of 25%. This is the most likely reason why your lotion is not forming a stable emulsion that provides a moisturizing feel. When the oil phase is too high for the emulsifier, the cream structure can break down, leading to a dry or non-emulsified feel on the skin.

Regarding your mixing steps:

• Step A: Water (63.5%) + Flora Fix (1%) + Hyaluronic (5%) + Glycerine (0.5%) + Satin Cream Maker
• Step B: Oil butter + Oil + Vit E (23%) + Fragrance (1%) + DMI (3%) + Mild pres (0.5%)

Combining the water phase containing the emulsifier with the oil phase is the correct general method for using Satin Cream Maker. However, the product description also mentions specific points:

• If using ingredients like Shea Butter in the oil phase (which you are), they should be heated to around 50°C to melt before mixing with other oils.
• Avoid mixing at speeds higher than 2500 rpm, as this can damage the polymer structure of the emulsifier.

Your mixing method seems generally correct, but the high percentage of the oil phase (and related ingredients) is the primary issue causing the lack of moisturization.

Suggestions:

1. Reduce the oil phase: Adjust your formula to ensure the total percentage of oil, butter, fragrance, Flora Fix, and DMI is no more than 25%. You might need to reduce the amount of oil/butter or increase the water phase percentage.
2. Follow specific instructions: Ensure you are following all specific instructions for Satin Cream Maker, including heating the oil phase if necessary and controlling mixing speed.

By reducing the oil phase to be within the recommended limit for Satin Cream Maker, you should be able to achieve a stable emulsion that provides the desired moisturizing feel.