Lotion Formula Review: Emulsifier, pH Adjustment, and Alternatives

Question

I want to make a body lotion but don't like a sticky feel, so I plan to use water as about 80-90% of the composition. I found this formula:

(Note: The oil(s) can be one oil or a combination of oils, as long as the total weight for all adds up to 32.4 grams.)

To adjust for skin types, there is also an oily skin version:

Based on this, I have the following questions:

Does this formula use E-Wax as the emulsifier? If I don't have E-Wax, what kind of emulsifier would be suitable for this formula? Can I use beeswax + an emulsifier instead?
Is this formula okay overall? Are there any aspects that should be improved or modified?
Can I replace the Citric Acid (.5 grams, 0.25%) with Lactic Acid?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Lotion Formula Review

Regarding the lotion formula you found:

Emulsifier: Yes, E-Wax (GP-200 Wax) in the formula acts as the primary emulsifier, helping to bind the water and oil phases together to create a stable lotion. You can use other non-ionic emulsifying waxes as alternatives, such as Emulsifying Wax 1000. If you prefer a natural option, Emulsifying Beeswax is a natural emulsifier that can also thicken the formula. Regular Yellow Beeswax is primarily a thickener and emollient, not a complete emulsifier on its own, so using it would likely require adding a separate emulsifier.
Formula Review: This is a standard oil-in-water (O/W) lotion formula. The high water content (75% or 90% in the oily skin version) is suitable for creating a light, non-greasy feel, which aligns with your goal. The oily skin variation with a lower oil phase (6% oil + 4% E-Wax) will feel even lighter. The inclusion of Glycerine helps with hydration. Stearic Acid acts as a thickener and co-emulsifier. Germaben II is a necessary preservative for water-based formulas. Overall, the formula is a good starting point for a light body lotion. Ensure you adjust the pH to be skin-compatible (typically 4.5-5.5) after adding all ingredients.
Citric Acid Replacement: Yes, you can generally replace Citric Acid with Lactic Acid to adjust the pH of the formula. Both are acids used to lower pH in cosmetic formulations. The amount needed might be slightly different to achieve the same target pH, so you would need to measure the pH and add gradually.