Lotion Formula Review for Very Dry, Sensitive Skin

Asked by: sn.prang On: May 03, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please review this lotion formula and provide recommendations? I need a lotion that provides high moisture, is non-greasy, and is suitable for very dry, sensitive skin. Please check if the following ingredients and percentages can be used, or if any ingredients or percentages should be changed/adjusted:

[b]water phase[/b]
DI Water
Disodium EDTA 0.1%
Glycerin 2%
Ceramide Complex (Water Dispersible Powder) 1%
Light Cream Maker 0.5%

b]oil phase[/b]
Caresolf 0.5%
Cholesterol 0.5%
shea butter 1%
Jojoba Oil 2%
VitaminB5 0.5%

Mild Preserved Eco 1%

Answer

Formula Evaluation

Your formula includes several excellent ingredients for dry and sensitive skin:

  • Glycerin and Vitamin B5 are great humectants that attract water to the skin.
  • Ceramide Complex and Cholesterol are crucial for repairing the skin barrier, which is often compromised in very dry skin.
  • Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil are good emollients. Jojoba Oil is particularly known for its non-greasy feel.
  • Disodium EDTA is a standard chelating agent for formula stability.
  • Mild Preserved Eco is a preservative blend often suitable for sensitive formulations.

However, there are a couple of points to consider:

  1. "Caresolf": This ingredient was not clearly identified in the product database. Could you please clarify what this ingredient is? Without knowing its properties, it's difficult to assess its suitability or function in the formula. You may need to replace it with a known emollient or other functional ingredient.
  2. Light Cream Maker Percentage: You are using Light Cream Maker at 0.5%. The description for Light Cream Maker indicates a recommended usage rate of 0.5-3%, with 1-1.5% recommended for typical viscosity. While 0.5% is within the range, it is at the very low end. Given your goal of "high moisture" and the total oil phase percentage (around 4.5% excluding "Caresolf"), increasing the Light Cream Maker percentage to 1-1.5% would likely provide better emulsion stability and contribute to a more substantial, moisturizing texture without necessarily making it greasy, as Light Cream Maker is described as creating a light, non-gooey cream. Using too little emulsifier can lead to an unstable product over time.
  3. Overall Moisture Level: While the ingredients are good, the total percentage of emollients and lipids (Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil, Cholesterol, Ceramide Complex) is around 4.5% (again, excluding "Caresolf"). For "very dry skin", you might consider slightly increasing the total oil phase or adding another light emollient to boost the moisturizing effect. Increasing Jojoba Oil slightly (e.g., to 3-4%) or adding a light ester could be options, adjusting the Light Cream Maker percentage accordingly to maintain stability.

Recommendations

  • Clarify or Replace "Caresolf": Identify what "Caresolf" is. If it cannot be identified, replace it with a suitable emollient or ingredient that serves its intended purpose.
  • Adjust Light Cream Maker: Consider increasing Light Cream Maker from 0.5% to 1-1.5% to improve emulsion stability and potentially enhance the moisturizing feel.
  • Consider Increasing Oil Phase: For "very dry skin", you might consider slightly increasing the total oil phase percentage (e.g., by increasing Jojoba Oil or adding another light emollient) to provide more intense moisturization, ensuring you adjust the emulsifier percentage as needed.
  • Test Stability and Feel: Always make a small test batch to check the stability of the emulsion and evaluate the texture and feel on the skin to ensure it meets your "non-greasy" requirement.

Overall, the base of your formula with Ceramides, Cholesterol, Jojoba, Shea, Glycerin, and Vitamin B5 is excellent for dry and sensitive skin. Adjusting the emulsifier and clarifying the unknown ingredient will help optimize the formula for stability and desired texture.