Lotion Formula Review: Natural Formulation, Preservative-Free Claim, and pH of Oils

Asked by: chareeratp On: December 25, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a lotion for very dry skin, inspired by the recommendation of using Shea Butter for my 10-year-old's dry skin. I have created the following formula and have some questions:

Formula:

  • Group A: Sea Kelp Extract, Glycerin, Satin Cream Maker, Water
  • Group B: Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil
  • Group C: Mild Preserved Eco, Soy Extract, Natto Gum, Essential Oil

My Mixing Method:

  1. Heat Group B until melted.
  2. Mix Group A.
  3. Combine Group A and B, then add Group C.

Questions:

  1. Can this formula be claimed as "preservative-free"?
  2. How can the formula be adjusted to claim "all natural"?
  3. What is the pH of natural oils and butters?

Answer

Lotion Formula Review and Natural Formulation Tips

Thank you for sharing your lotion formula for dry skin. It's a good starting point with many natural oils and extracts known for their moisturizing properties.

Formula Review and Mixing Method

Your proposed formula includes:

  • Group A: Sea Kelp Extract, Glycerin, Satin Cream Maker, Water
  • Group B: Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil
  • Group C: Mild Preserved Eco, Soy Extract, Natto Gum, Essential Oil

Your mixing method is generally correct for creating an emulsion. Based on feedback, for step 1, you can briefly heat the oils and butters in Group B up to 70°C to help them melt faster. For step 3, it is recommended to gradually add Group B (oil phase) into Group A (water phase) while mixing at high speed, rather than combining them all at once. This helps ensure a stable emulsion.

Answering Your Questions

  1. Can this formula be claimed as "preservative-free"?
    No, this formula cannot be claimed as "preservative-free". Although Mild Preserved Eco is not classified as a preservative by the FDA, both Sea Kelp Extract and Natto Gum contain Phenoxyethanol, which is considered a preservative according to FDA regulations. Therefore, the final product contains a preservative.

  2. How can the formula be adjusted to claim "all natural"?
    To make this formula "all natural" and free from synthetic preservatives, you would need to make several adjustments:

    • Emulsifier: Replace Satin Cream Maker (a synthetic polymer) with a natural emulsifier. Options include Emulsifying Beeswax or Olivem 1000. These will require different mixing methods, often involving heating both the water and oil phases.
    • Preservative: Replace Mild Preserved Eco (which contains synthetic Ethylhexylglycerin) with a natural preservative system. Examples include NaturePreserve Ultra or Coco-Preserve.
    • Extracts: The current Sea Kelp Extract and Natto Gum contain Phenoxyethanol. To avoid synthetic preservatives entirely, you would need to source versions of these extracts that are preserved naturally or are self-preserving.

    An "all natural" formula would primarily use plant-derived oils, butters, extracts, and natural emulsifiers and preservatives.

  3. What is the pH of natural oils and butters?
    Oils and butters do not have a pH value. pH is a measure of acidity or alkalinity in water-based solutions. Oils are lipids and are not water-based, so pH measurement does not apply to them.

Summary of Adjustments for an "All Natural" Formula

To create an "all natural" lotion based on your desired properties (moisturizing, fast absorption, non-greasy), you would need to:

  • Select a natural emulsifier (e.g., Emulsifying Beeswax, Olivem 1000) and follow its specific mixing instructions, which usually involve heating.
  • Choose a natural preservative system (e.g., NaturePreserve Ultra, Coco-Preserve).
  • Source extracts (Sea Kelp Extract, Natto Gum) that do not contain synthetic preservatives like Phenoxyethanol.
  • Maintain the use of natural oils and butters like Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, and Fractionated Coconut Oil.

Remember that achieving a fast-absorbing, non-greasy texture with a high percentage of natural oils and butters can be challenging and may require experimentation with different oil combinations and emulsifiers.