Lotion Formulation: Adding Fragrance and Achieving SPF 50

Asked by: pinthip_nong On: October 12, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to make a lotion with the following ingredients and achieve SPF 50 protection. How should I make this lotion, and at what step should I add the fragrance?

My formula is:

  • Distilled Water (88%)
  • Light Cream Maker (1%)
  • Rose Hip Oil (5%)
  • Cetearyl Alcohol (5%)
  • Phenoxyethanol SA (1%)
  • Fragrance (amount not specified, but mentioned)

Can this formula achieve SPF 50, perhaps by adding something like SPF Protect Ultra™ II?

Answer

Based on the ingredients you provided, here is a general method for making the lotion and when to add the fragrance. Please note that the staff reply correctly points out that this formula is very basic and does not contain sunscreen ingredients, so it will not provide SPF 50 protection.

Here's how you can make the lotion with the ingredients listed:

Method:

  1. Prepare Phases:

    • Phase A (Water Phase): Weigh your Distilled Water (88%) into a heat-resistant container.
    • Phase B (Oil/Emulsifier Phase): Weigh your Light Cream Maker (1%), Rose Hip Oil (5%), and Cetearyl Alcohol (5%) into a separate heat-resistant container.
  2. Heat Phases: Gently heat both Phase A and Phase B separately to about 70-75°C. Heat until the solid ingredients in Phase B (Light Cream Maker, Cetearyl Alcohol) are fully melted and both phases are at roughly the same temperature.

  3. Emulsify: Slowly pour Phase B into Phase A while stirring continuously. Use a stick blender or whisk to mix vigorously for several minutes (e.g., 3-5 minutes) to ensure a stable emulsion forms.

  4. Cool Down: Continue stirring occasionally while the mixture cools down.

  5. Add Cool-Down Ingredients: Once the temperature drops below 40-45°C, add the Phenoxyethanol SA (1%) and the Fragrance.

  6. Final Mix: Stir well until all ingredients are evenly distributed and the lotion is smooth and uniform.

  7. Package: Pour the lotion into clean containers.

When to add Fragrance:

Add the fragrance during the cool-down phase (Step 5), after the emulsion has formed and the temperature has dropped below 40-45°C. Adding it at a lower temperature helps preserve the scent and prevents heat from altering the fragrance components.

Regarding your goal of making an SPF 50 lotion, the formula you provided does not contain any sunscreen active ingredients. To achieve SPF protection, you would need to incorporate appropriate sunscreen filters into your formula, which would require a different formulation approach. The link provided by the staff (SPF Protect Ultra™ II) is an example of a product containing sunscreen actives, but simply adding it to this basic formula may not result in a stable or effective SPF 50 product without proper formulation expertise.