Lotion Formulation Ingredients and Missing Components

Asked by: murderero On: May 21, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on my current lotion containing isopropyl myristate, cetyl alcohol, dimethicone, and glyceryl stearate, and having the following ingredients at home:

  • glycerin
  • butylene glycol
  • cetyl alcohol
  • dimethicone
  • polysorbate 20
  • glyceryl stearate
  • carbomer
  • niacinamide
  • preservative

Could you please clarify the primary oil/emollient ingredient in my current lotion and advise what additional ingredients are essential to formulate a stable lotion using the components I currently possess?

Answer

Lotion Ingredients Analysis

Based on the ingredient list of your current lotion and the staff's reply:

  • Oils/Emollients in your current lotion: The primary ingredient acting as an oil or emollient is isopropyl myristate, as confirmed by the staff. Other ingredients that contribute to the oil phase and the feel of the lotion include cetyl alcohol, dimethicone, and glyceryl stearate.

  • Making a lotion with your home ingredients: You have several useful ingredients:

    • glycerin and butylene glycol: These are humectants, helping the skin retain moisture.
    • cetyl alcohol: Acts as a thickener and emollient.
    • dimethicone: A silicone emollient for smoothness.
    • polysorbate 20 and glyceryl stearate: These are emulsifiers, helping to mix oil and water.
    • carbomer: A thickener for the water phase.
    • niacinamide: An active ingredient with various skin benefits (like Safe-B3).
    • preservative: Essential for preventing microbial growth.

However, to form a stable lotion (which is an emulsion of oil and water), you are missing some crucial components:

  1. Water: Lotion is primarily water. You need this as the base to dissolve your water-soluble ingredients and create the continuous phase of the emulsion.
  2. Carbomer Neutralizer: Your carbomer needs to be neutralized with a base to swell and thicken the water phase into a gel structure. The original lotion uses sodium hydroxide for this purpose. Without a neutralizer, the carbomer will not thicken properly.
  3. Dedicated Oil Phase Ingredient: While you have emollients, a liquid emollient like isopropyl myristate (in your original lotion) or the suggested LipidSoft or LipidSoft CC is typically needed to form the dispersed oil phase and provide the desired skin feel and spreadability. LipidSoft CC is a good option known for its light, non-greasy feel.
  4. Complete Emulsifier System: While you have some emulsifiers, creating a stable emulsion often requires a balanced blend. The staff's mention of LotionBliss suggests using a pre-mixed emulsifier base designed for lotions. Your current emulsifiers might not be sufficient on their own to create a stable, smooth lotion texture.

In summary, you definitely need to add Water and a Carbomer Neutralizer like Sodium Hydroxide to use your carbomer and create a lotion base. Adding a dedicated oil phase ingredient such as LipidSoft CC and potentially a more complete emulsifier system would help you achieve a texture and stability closer to your original lotion. The staff's suggestion of Xanthan Gum is also an alternative thickener that behaves differently from Carbomer and might be easier to work with in some formulations.