Lotion Formulation Review and Adjustment

Asked by: ffirst.kittipan On: October 07, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have the following lotion formula and would like to know if it can be mixed as is, how to mix it, and if any ingredients should be reduced, increased, or removed. Thank you.

Here is the formula:

  • Water 40.6%
  • Safe-B3™ 5%
  • GlucoBright™ 4%
  • Allantoin 0.2%
  • Natural Betaine 2%
  • Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) 1%
  • MOIST24 5%
  • Skin-Barrier™ 5%
  • 1,2-Hexanediol 3%
  • 8D Hyaluronic Acid 5%
  • Ethoxydiglycol 10%
  • Glyceryl glucoside 3%
  • 1,3-Propanediol 5%
  • TransMoist™ 2%
  • Palmitamide MEA 1%
  • Disodium EDTA 0.2%
  • LipidSoft™ F 5%
  • Activated Resorcinol™ 2%
  • Natural Bisabolol 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ 1%
  • Odor-Kill™ 1%

Can this formula be mixed? How should it be mixed? Should any ingredients be reduced, increased, or removed? Thank you.

Answer

Lotion Formulation Review

Your formula contains a good range of moisturizing, skin barrier support, anti-inflammatory, and whitening ingredients. However, there are a few points to consider regarding mixability, percentages, and the mixing process.

Can This Formula Be Mixed As Is?

No, this formula cannot be mixed as is to create a stable lotion.

  • Missing Emulsifier: The formula contains both water-soluble ingredients (most of them) and oil-soluble ingredients (LipidSoft™ F, Activated Resorcinol™, Natural Bisabolol). To combine these into a stable lotion (an emulsion), you need a primary emulsifier, which is currently missing from your list. Pro Polymer™ is a thickener, not an emulsifier.
  • Ingredient Percentages Exceed Recommended Limits:
    • Ethoxydiglycol: The percentage is 10%. For leave-on products like lotion, the recommended maximum usage rate is typically lower (e.g., <= 2.6% according to one product description). Using 10% is likely too high for a leave-on product.
    • Activated Resorcinol™: The percentage is 2%. For leave-on products, the recommended maximum usage rate is 1.0%. Using 2% is too high and may cause skin irritation.
  • Total Percentage: The sum of the percentages (101.2%) slightly exceeds 100%.

Recommended Adjustments

To make this a stable and safe lotion, you should make the following adjustments:

  • Add an Emulsifier: Choose a suitable emulsifier for an oil-in-water emulsion. The type and percentage will depend on the desired texture and the specific emulsifier's requirements.
  • Reduce Ethoxydiglycol: Lower the percentage of Ethoxydiglycol to the recommended maximum for leave-on products (e.g., 2.6%).
  • Reduce Activated Resorcinol™: Lower the percentage of Activated Resorcinol™ to the recommended maximum for leave-on products (1.0%).
  • Adjust Water Percentage: Increase the percentage of water to balance the formula and bring the total to 100% after adding the emulsifier and reducing Ethoxydiglycol and Activated Resorcinol™.
  • Consider Humectant Load: Your formula has a very high concentration of humectants (Natural Betaine, MOIST24, 1,2-Hexanediol, 8D Hyaluronic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Glyceryl glucoside, 1,3-Propanediol, TransMoist™). While beneficial for hydration, this high level might result in a sticky or heavy texture. You might consider slightly reducing some of these if you prefer a lighter feel, but the current levels are generally within the individual ingredient's recommended ranges.
  • Odor-Kill™ and Fragrance: Be aware that Odor-Kill™ can absorb fragrance. If you plan to add a scent, you may need to adjust or remove Odor-Kill™ or use a higher fragrance concentration.

General Mixing Procedure Outline

Once you have adjusted the formula and selected an emulsifier, here is a general mixing procedure. Always follow the specific instructions for your chosen emulsifier and ingredients.

  1. Water Phase: Combine water, Disodium EDTA, Natural Betaine, Allantoin, Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, MOIST24, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl glucoside, 1,3-Propanediol, and TransMoist™. Disperse Pro Polymer™ in this phase according to its instructions (usually sprinkle slowly into the vortex while stirring gently, then let hydrate fully). Heat this phase if required by your emulsifier or to help dissolve ingredients like Allantoin (up to 75°C) or Palmitamide MEA (if dissolving in a water phase component, though dissolving in the oil phase or Ethoxydiglycol is often recommended).
  2. Oil Phase: Combine LipidSoft™ F, Natural Bisabolol, Activated Resorcinol™, Palmitamide MEA, and Ethoxydiglycol. Heat this phase to the temperature required by your emulsifier and to dissolve solid ingredients like Palmitamide MEA and Activated Resorcinol™ (avoid heat above 80°C for LipidSoft™ F and 80°C for Palmitamide MEA for extended periods; avoid heat for Activated Resorcinol™ if possible, or keep it minimal below 70°C). Ensure both phases are at the correct temperature if using a hot process emulsifier.
  3. Emulsification: Add the oil phase to the water phase (or vice versa, depending on your emulsifier) while mixing with sufficient shear to create a stable emulsion. Continue mixing while cooling.
  4. Cooling Phase: Once the emulsion has formed and is cooling, add heat-sensitive ingredients. Add Mild Preserved Eco™ when the temperature is below 80°C and Odor-Kill™ when the temperature is below 50°C.
  5. Final Adjustments: Once the lotion is at room temperature, check and adjust the pH to be within the optimal range for your active ingredients (ideally between 4.5 and 7).

By adding a suitable emulsifier and adjusting the percentages of Ethoxydiglycol and Activated Resorcinol™, you can create a stable and effective lotion based on your desired ingredient profile.