Lotion Formulation Stability with Cocoa Butter

Question

I have formulated a natural, moisturizing, non-irritating lotion with Coconut Oil, using the following composition:

Water Phase:

Water (57%)
Hydro Gel (5%)
Aloevera extract (2%)
Luxury Cream Maker (1%)

Oil Phase:

Fractionated Coconut Oil (20%)
Virgin Olive Oil (5%)
Cocoa Butter (deodorized) (10%)

I am concerned about the stability of this formula, particularly regarding the 10% Cocoa Butter. Given that Cocoa Butter is a solid butter at cooler temperatures, is there a risk that it might solidify or separate from the lotion, which is expected to have a relatively thin consistency with the current emulsifier system? What adjustments can be made to the emulsifier system to ensure better stability and a thicker texture? Additionally, are there any suggestions for adding ingredients like Vitamin B3 and Vitamin B5 to enhance the skin nourishing benefits of this formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on your proposed natural, moisturizing, non-irritating lotion formula featuring Coconut Oil, here is some feedback:

Your formula includes:
Water Phase: Water (57%), Hydro Gel (5%), Aloevera extract (2%), Luxury Cream Maker (1%)
Oil Phase: Fractionated Coconut Oil (20%), Virgin Olive Oil (5%), Cocoa Butter (deodorized) (10%)

Regarding the formula, a potential concern is the inclusion of 10% Cocoa Butter in a lotion that might have a relatively thin consistency with the current emulsifier system. Cocoa Butter is a solid butter at room temperature, and there is a possibility it might try to solidify and separate from the lotion, especially in cooler conditions.

To address this and improve the stability and thickness of the lotion, two adjustments to the emulsifier system are suggested:

Option 1 (More certain): Replace Luxury Cream Maker (1%) with a combination of Soft Cream Maker (5%) and Light Cream Maker (1%). Soft Cream Maker can help keep the Cocoa Butter integrated and prevent it from solidifying separately.
Option 2: Replace Luxury Cream Maker (1%) with a higher proportion of Light Cream Maker, such as 2%. This should also result in a thicker, more stable texture.

Additionally, for enhanced skin nourishment benefits, it is recommended to add Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) at 5% and Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) at 3%. This would improve the formula's efficacy with only a slight increase in cost.

Finally, since your formula contains a water phase, it is essential to include a preservative to prevent microbial growth and ensure the product's safety and shelf life.