Lotion Formulation with High Oil Phase and Emulsifier Capacity

Asked by: kanyarach On: April 09, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a lotion with a 58% oil phase using Light Cream Maker. The oil phase consists of:

  • Shea Butter (Refined, Deodorised)
  • Evening Primrose Oil (Refined, 9% GLA)

I received feedback that the percentage of oil is too high for Light Cream Maker (which can handle up to 35-40%). My question is, can I use Shea Butter and Evening Primrose Oil at a total of 58% in this lotion formula with Light Cream Maker, or is the high oil percentage the main issue causing potential separation?

Answer

Regarding Your Lotion Formula with High Oil Percentage

Thank you for your question about your lotion formula and the feedback you received. You are asking if you can use Shea Butter (Refined, Deodorised) and Evening Primrose Oil (Refined, 9% GLA) for the 58% oil phase.

Shea Butter and Evening Primrose Oil are excellent ingredients for skincare formulations and can certainly be used in a lotion. However, the feedback you received is correct regarding the high percentage of the oil phase.

  • The main issue is the total percentage of oil (58%), not the specific oils themselves.
  • Light Cream Maker is designed to emulsify an oil phase of up to approximately 20%. An oil percentage of 58% is significantly higher than what this emulsifier can handle.
  • Even other cream makers like Soft Cream Maker can typically handle up to about 25% oil.

Using a total oil phase of 58% with emulsifiers like Light Cream Maker or Soft Cream Maker will very likely result in an unstable emulsion that separates. While Shea Butter and Evening Primrose Oil are suitable ingredients, you must reduce the total percentage of your oil phase (item #2 in your formula) to be within the capacity of the emulsifier you choose (e.g., no more than 20% for Light Cream Maker, or up to 25% for Soft Cream Maker) to create a stable lotion.