Lotion Separation Issue and Proper Emulsification Technique

Asked by: jn_andy On: May 20, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a lotion with the following phases:

  • Phase A: Water, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Goat Milk, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein
  • Phase B+C: Milk Lotion Maker, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Medium, Cetearyl Alcohol
  • Phase D: Phenoxyethanol SA, Vitamin E, fragrance

My lotion keeps separating. What is causing this separation, and what is the correct method for emulsifying these ingredients, especially considering the heat-sensitive ingredients in Phase A and the use of Milk Lotion Maker, to achieve a stable lotion texture?

Answer

Based on the formula and the conversation with the staff, the separation likely occurred because the water phase (A) was not heated to a sufficient temperature before being combined with the heated oil phase (B+C). Proper emulsification requires both phases to be at a similar, sufficiently high temperature (typically around 70-80°C for many emulsions) when they are combined.

To fix this issue and prevent separation, please follow the emulsification method recommended by the staff:

  1. Prepare Phases A and B+C: Separate the ingredients in phase A into two groups: those that can withstand heat (water, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Goat Milk) and those that are heat-sensitive (Hydrolyzed Milk Protein). Heat the heat-tolerant part of phase A and the entire phase B+C mixture (Milk Lotion Maker, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Medium, Cetearyl Alcohol) separately to at least 70°C.
  2. Combine Phases: Once both heated parts reach at least 70°C, gradually add the heated water phase (A) into the heated oil phase (B+C) while continuously stirring or blending vigorously. Continue mixing until a stable emulsion (lotion) is formed.
  3. Cooling: Turn off the heat and continue stirring slowly while the mixture cools down.
  4. Add Phase D and Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: When the lotion has cooled to below 50°C, add the ingredients from phase D (Phenoxyethanol SA, Vitamin E, fragrance) and the heat-sensitive Hydrolyzed Milk Protein from phase A. Stir until all ingredients are evenly dispersed.

Ensuring both phases are at the correct temperature (at least 70°C) when combining them is crucial for the Milk Lotion Maker emulsifier to work effectively and create a stable emulsion that will not separate over time.