Understanding Cosmetic Ingredient Lists and Substitutions

You've asked some excellent questions about the ingredients in the Chanel Le Blanc Light Revealing Brightening Makeup Base SPF 30, particularly regarding the placement of Titanium Dioxide and the properties of silicones like Methyl Trimethicone and Phenyl Trimethicone.

Ingredient Order and Titanium Dioxide

Cosmetic ingredient lists are generally required to list ingredients in descending order of concentration. However, there are nuances, especially with active ingredients like sunscreens or colorants.

While Titanium Dioxide is listed at 9.2% (a significant concentration for SPF), its placement lower in the list could be because the form used is primarily intended as a pigment for color correction and brightening, rather than solely as a UV filter. Pigments, even at relatively high percentages, might sometimes be listed after ingredients that form the bulk of the base formulation (like water, silicones, and emollients).

Additionally, the 9.2% might refer to the concentration of the Titanium Dioxide dispersion (Titanium Dioxide pre-mixed in a base like silicone or oil), rather than the raw pigment itself. If the dispersion contains a lower percentage of actual Titanium Dioxide pigment within a larger amount of a base ingredient (which is listed higher), this could also affect its position in the list.

Methyl Trimethicone vs. Phenyl Trimethicone (Silicone Shine)

Methyl Trimethicone and Phenyl Trimethicone are different types of silicones with distinct properties:

• Methyl Trimethicone: This is a lightweight, fast-evaporating silicone. It provides a very smooth and soft feel on the skin and is often used in premium formulations for its elegant, non-greasy finish. It does not provide significant shine.
• Phenyl Trimethicone (like Silicone Shine): This type of silicone is known for providing high gloss and shine. It is commonly used in products like hair serums or lipsticks where a shiny finish is desired.

As correctly pointed out in the conversation, Methyl Trimethicone is not the same as Phenyl Trimethicone (Silicone Shine). Methyl Trimethicone is a volatile silicone that gives a light, smooth feel, while Phenyl Trimethicone provides shine and is not volatile. The original formula uses Methyl Trimethicone for its light, fast-evaporating properties, not for shine.

Substituting Methyl Trimethicone

Methyl Trimethicone is a premium ingredient due to its fast evaporation and superior feel. While not an exact match in terms of feel and evaporation speed, Cyclomethicone can be used as a more readily available substitute for Methyl Trimethicone in formulations. It provides a similar lightweight, smooth feel, although it evaporates slightly slower. Our Methyl Trimethicone will be available soon.

Based on the ingredient list provided and the discussion, the Chanel formula contains Methyl Trimethicone, but it does not contain Phenyl Trimethicone (Silicone Shine).

Other Ingredients Identified

The ingredient list also appears to contain:

• Water
• PEG-10 Dimethicone (likely used as an emulsifier, possibly SiliSolve or SiliSolve Plus given the presence of oils)
• Isododecane (a lightweight, volatile emollient)
• Propanediol Dicaprylate (a lightweight emollient)
• Alcohol (likely Ethyl Alcohol)
• Isononyl Isononanoate (LipidSoft Lite, a light emollient)
• Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (an emollient providing gloss and film-forming properties)
• Boron Nitride (WhiteMatte, likely for soft-focus and brightening)
• Tromethamine (a pH adjuster)
• Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silicone Film, for long-wear and water resistance)
• Disteardimonium Hectorite (a thickener/suspending agent, often used in oil or silicone bases like Hectorite Oil Gel)
• Preservatives and Fragrance

Understanding the function of each ingredient helps in replicating or modifying formulations.