Makeup Pilling and Stability Issues in Hyaluron Serum Formula

Question

Hello, I have two questions.

First, regarding the Hyaluron Serum from myskinrecipes ([url:18l8npfc]https://www.myskinrecipes.com/recipes/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%A3/hyaluron-serum-preservative-free/[/url:18l8npfc]). While it's very effective for hydration, for me and others around me, it's better suited for nighttime use only. When used before applying makeup (sunscreen, pressed powder, or loose powder), the makeup becomes patchy/pills. Comments on the formula page also mention this issue when using it before makeup. I would like to ask the team:

Which ingredients can be reduced or removed to lessen the makeup pilling problem? (I'm okay if reducing or removing some ingredients slightly decreases the serum's hydration, as it's better than having makeup pilling).

I'm unsure if this is because the serum is too moisturizing or if certain ingredients provide hydration or coat the outer skin layer, causing this issue.

Should I reduce or remove % of:
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/143-glycerin-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:18l8npfc]Glycerin[/url:18l8npfc]
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/1189-hyacoat-cationic-hyaluronic-acid.html:18l8npfc]HyaCoat[/url:18l8npfc]

to reduce this problem? If so, what percentage should I reduce them to? Or should I reduce other ingredients instead?

Second, since the company's Hyaluron Serum formula works well, I developed a custom formula for personal use by adding some ingredients and increasing their percentages:

[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%8ข%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/116-glucosamine-n-acetyl-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8ซ%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:18l8npfc]GlucoBright[/url:18l8npfc] 4 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%Aว%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:18l8npfc]Vitamin B3[/url:18l8npfc] 10 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%8ก%E0%B8%A9%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/252-zinc-pca-%E0%B8%8ซ%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%8ง%E0%B8%8ค%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%8ซ%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AD.html:18l8npfc]Zinc PCA[/url:18l8npfc] 1 %
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%ซ%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8จ%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8์/111-panthenol-pro-vitamin-b5-%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B55.html:18l8npfc]Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5)[/url:18l8npfc] 3 %

After using the serum for a period (6 months or more), the serum's color changed to clear yellow, it became thicker/more viscous, and the odor became stronger. Is this because the percentage of Vitamin B3 is too high? Or which ingredient should be reduced/removed to fix the color and odor issues?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello, thank you for your questions. I understand that makeup pilling after applying serum is a concern, as are the changes in color, odor, and viscosity in your modified formula.

I will address your two points:

1. Makeup Pilling Issue with the Company's Hyaluron Serum

Makeup pilling after applying serum often results from a combination of factors:

Film-forming ingredients: Some ingredients, such as highly moisturizing substances or those that create gel texture/viscosity, can form a thin layer on the skin. When rubbed during makeup application, this layer can ball up or create patches.
Amount of serum used: Applying too much serum leaves excess product on the skin.
Absorption time: Applying makeup too quickly before the serum has fully absorbed.
Product compatibility: Ingredients in the serum may not be compatible with ingredients in the makeup applied on top.

Regarding the ingredients you asked about, Glycerin and HyaCoat, both are highly moisturizing substances:

Glycerin: A humectant that draws water into the skin. At high concentrations, it can feel sticky, which might contribute to pilling.
HyaCoat (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid): A modified Hyaluronic Acid with a positive charge that helps it adhere well to skin and hair. It often gives a coating feel. This property can make pilling more likely when makeup is applied on top, especially powder products or those containing silicones.

Recommendation:
Reducing the amount of Glycerin and/or HyaCoat is the correct approach. Both contribute to the serum's hydration and may play a role in creating a film on the skin that leads to pilling.

Glycerin: Try reducing the amount from the original formula, perhaps by half, or further if the problem persists. Reducing Glycerin will help decrease stickiness and the chance of pilling.
HyaCoat: This ingredient has a high tendency to cause pilling due to its coating property. Reducing the amount of HyaCoat, or even considering removing it if you want to minimize pilling as much as possible, is an option (though it will reduce the coating property that helps retain moisture).

Adjusting the amounts of these two ingredients will indeed help reduce the chance of makeup pilling. This comes with the trade-off of the serum feeling slightly less moisturizing or less coating on the skin, which you mentioned you are okay with.

2. Color, Odor, and Viscosity Changes in Your Modified Formula

Based on the ingredients you added: GlucoBright (4%), Vitamin B3 (10%), Zinc PCA (1%), Panthenol (3%), and the problems observed (yellowing, increased viscosity, stronger odor after about 6 months), the primary cause for these issues, especially the yellowing and stronger odor, is likely the high concentration of Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide).

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): A concentration of 10% is quite high. Niacinamide tends to convert to Nicotinic Acid over time, particularly if the formula's pH is not optimal or if exposed to high temperatures. This Nicotinic Acid causes the yellow color and can have a distinct, pungent odor. Additionally, the high concentration of Niacinamide and other added ingredients (like GlucoBright, Panthenol), which are water-soluble humectants/actives, can contribute to increased serum viscosity over time.

Recommendation:
To address the color, odor, and viscosity changes, you should reduce the amount of Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide).

Niacinamide concentrations that are effective and less prone to stability issues are typically around 2-5%. Reducing the amount of Niacinamide to this range will significantly reduce the chance of Nicotinic Acid formation, which is the cause of the color and odor changes.
Other added ingredients like GlucoBright, Zinc PCA, and Panthenol are generally quite stable and are unlikely to be the primary cause of such significant color/odor changes. The main issue is likely the 10% Niacinamide.

Reducing Niacinamide will help improve the formula's long-term stability.

I hope this advice is helpful. If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.